8 Essential Grapes to Understand Sonoma Wine

Sonoma County, just an hour north of San Francisco, might not have the international reputation that the neighboring Napa Valley does, but it still has plenty for wine lovers to be excited about.

This historic region was first planted in the early 1800s and has grown wine grapes ever since. It boasts a dizzying array of climates and soil types, making it an ideal home for a wide range of varietals and wine styles. From crisp, refreshing whites to full-bodied and age-worthy reds, there’s something for every palate.

But, to fully comprehend Sonoma’s rich winegrowing history and modern-day landscape, you’ve got to understand the grapes that have come to define it. Here are eight varietals that have made Sonoma wine what it is today.

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Chardonnay

Chardonnay is the single most popular grape in the county—red or white. And why not? Winemakers love working with Burgundian varietal, as it can be made in a wide range of styles, from heavily oaked and decadent, to mineral-driven and acid-forward.

This versatility gives wine lovers loads of options, but the classic examples from the Russian River Valley really deliver the best of both worlds. It’s no wonder these wines have exploded in popularity since the AVA was founded in the early eighties—and have helped cement California’s reputation as a global wine powerhouse.

Foggy mornings and a long growing season provide brilliant acidity, while warm days provide optimal ripeness and opulent texture. The ability to have the best of both worlds has made Chardonnay from this region popular all over the world.

Pinot Noir

Ask wine lovers what the most complex grape is and often, you’ll hear about Pinot Noir. Ask growers which variety is the toughest to farm and you’re very likely to get the same answer.

Pinot’s thin skin and relatively high acid make for nuanced and aromatically compelling wines, and the grape thrives in cooler growing zones.

The AVAs located along Sonoma County’s coastline, such as Fort Ross-Seaview and West Sonoma Coast, share a proximity to the Pacific Ocean and foggy mornings that provide the perfect climate for gradual ripening and complex flavor profiles, like forest floor, nori and shiitake, making them ideal for this tricky but magical grape.

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Cabernet Sauvignon

Just over the Mayacamas Mountains, in Napa Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon is king. The wines from the western side of this range in the Moon Mountain and Sonoma Valley AVAs can be just as age worthy and satisfying and are generally more affordable.

Here, Cabernet is supple and nuanced, with lower alcohol and less overt oak treatment. Collectors have long known to find value here, but nowadays, top estates in Sonoma are producing truly world class examples of Cabernet with flavors of plum, cassis and volcanic character that belong in every serious cellar.

Zinfandel

Among the earliest plantings in Sonoma County, Zinfandel was prized by early settlers from Hungary and Italy. These robust reds (frequently planted alongside Petite Sirah, Alicante Bouschet, Carignane and other Rhône varieties) have stood the test of time, with many of California’s oldest plantings of “old-vine Zin” dating back well over a century.

Lytton Springs, Pagani Ranch, Mancini Ranch, Jackass Hill and Monte Rosso are some of the most sought-after parcels, with winemakers and collectors alike seeking out sources for these uniquely American wines.

While it’s tricky to generalize the flavors in these types of wines, as the mix of other varieties can really change the profile, it’s safe to say that they all carry some intense berry character and spice notes. The Russian River Valley and Dry Creek Valley both have a number of these historic sites, as do Sonoma Valley and Moon Mountain.

Syrah

A frequent addition to the vine rows that make up many of those old vine field blends, Syrah has come into its own in Sonoma’s coastal regions.

The cool nights, foggy mornings and steep hillsides in west Sonoma Coast and Fort Ross-Seaview are the perfect climate for an aromatically enchanting and lower alcohol style of Syrah than those generally grown in Napa Valley or the Central Coast.

These wines tend to possess more than a little bit of the classic Northern Rhône Valley Syrah character, displaying black olive and bacon flavors, but retain a distinct California depth and richness.

Grenache

The Rhône Valley’s other noble variety, Grenache, also carved out a niche for itself as a member of those “mixed black” varieties planted around the county so long ago.

Grenache has long been popular with growers, as it thrives in bright, sunny locations and provides a hefty crop more often than not.

In Sonoma, it can be soft and fruit driven or hearty and potent, depending on the location. But it thrives in areas with volcanic soils, like the rocky slopes of Moon Mountain, where it sings with added complexity and beguiling notes like kirsch, purple flowers and savory spices.

Sangiovese

The noble grape of Tuscany came to California with Italian immigrants early on and gained steam after the turn of the century, when Edoardo Seghesio purchased ten acres of land in Sonoma.

Those Sangiovese vineyards gave birth to a uniquely American clone of the classic Chianti varietal, featuring robust cherry and raspberry flavors with layers of spice and minerality.

The booming rise of Zinfandel in the eighties and nineties brought more attention to the Italian-American growers, and eventually the so-called Cal-Ital wines blossomed in popularity. While Sangiovese still makes up a small fraction of Sonoma County’s acreage, its historic significance shouldn’t be overlooked.

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Sauvignon Blanc

Sauvignon Blanc is among the world’s most popular white wines; it’s grown all over, in a wide range of different styles. Examples from New Zealand are racy and intense, while the classic versions from Bordeaux are deep and nuanced.

The best versions from Sonoma County tend to come from hilly growing zones like Bennett Valley and Pine Mountain-Cloverdale Peak, where the wines are made with the richer Bordeaux style in mind. Layered and textural, with brilliant acidity and classic California fruit, like Meyer lemon, pomelo and melon, Sonoma’s best Sauvignon Blancs compete with the world’s greatest.

More Sonoma Valley Coverage

Want to get a handle on the basics? Check out this introduction to Sonoma wine.
For a more in-depth look at the Russian River AVA terroir, read up on its special goldridge soil.
Or plan a trip with this guide to the best wineries (and more) in Sonoma.
From Gilded Age mansions to ryokan-inspired inns, here’s where to stay in Sonoma.
Lastly, soak up the Golden State sun with Sonoma’s best outdoor winery experiences.