There’s Nothing ‘Petit’ About Petit Chablis
Petit Chablis was once an unsung, quaffable, high-acid category of Chablis. But now, this underdog, entry-level Chablis is all grown up and ready for its closeup. So, what is Petit Chablis, how is it different from Chablis and why should you be drinking it now?
Here’s what you need to know about the French white wine that is a surprisingly great value.
Petit Chablis 101: The Soil Makes the Difference
Created in 1944 on the outskirts of the Chablis region, Petit Chablis is the newest category of Chablis and the only Chablis appellation that still has potential for expansion. “The importance of Petit Chablis has been growing for the last 10 years because it’s the last virgin soil of Chablis,” notes Julien Brocard, winemaker of Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard. Today, Petit Chablis is 1,286 hectares in size and represents 20.5% of Chablis production.
The Chablis region is divided into four AOCs: Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru. One of the key attributes that distinguishes these Chardonnay-exclusive AOCs from each other is soil type. Grapes in Petit Chablis are grown on Portlandian-limestone soil, while grapes in the other three AOCs are grown on Kimmeridgian soil, which imparts a characteristic minerality for which Chablis wines are well known around the world.
Chardonnay grapes grown on Portlandian soil produce wines that are lighter, fresher and more straightforward, with slightly less minerality than grapes grown on Kimmeridgian soil. Portlandian soil is brown in color, hard in texture and has less hydration, and grapes grown on it tend to ripen more quickly. This ripening effect is mitigated by location because the Petit Chablis appellation is positioned along higher elevations on hillsides and hilltop plateaus, which tends to slow ripening.
It’s important to know that the soil structure directly impacts what you experience in the glass and is at the heart of what distinguishes Petit Chablis from the other Chablis AOCs. With Petit Chablis you’re getting a wine that is immediately accessible and approachable, with aromas of fruit, white flowers and citrus supported by a subtle minerality.
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Climate Change to the Rescue
Climate change has significantly improved Petit Chablis’s lot, as it has the Chablis region as a whole—grapes are noticeably riper than they were 20 years ago. Planted at higher elevations, grapes in Petit Chablis that once struggled to ripen are now fully ripening and perfectly positioned to benefit from climate change. This has transformed a once austere-wine-producing appellation into one that is approaching the quality levels of Chablis AOC.
“Petit Chablis is getting much better because of quality and ripeness,” notes Olivier Masmondet, export manager at La Chablisienne, the region’s largest producer, who also observes the appellation getting more attention around the world.
Don’t Let ‘Petit’ Mislead You
Petit Chablis has long been plagued by a significant marketing challenge: the “petit” is a misnomer. “In the past, Petit Chablis was a subcategory but not anymore. That’s over,” says wine educator Sandrine Audegond.
For those unfamiliar to Petit Chablis, the “petit” suggests the wines are lesser or are Chablis AOC’s junior. “Obviously it’s not a good name,” notes Lucie Thieblemont, winemaker at Domaine Charly Nicolle, and many Chablis producers agree.
But don’t let the “petit” moniker mislead you. As winemaker Alexandre Ellevin of Domaine Ellevin underscores, “Petit Chablis is not petit vin.” Petit Chablis is improving in quality levels and the market is taking notice. In 2024, the number of bottles shipped to the U.S. from the Chablis region increased by 28.8% compared to 2023 largely driven by Petit Chablis and Chablis AOC wines.
While a wine store bottle of Petit Chablis is typically a few dollars cheaper than Chablis AOC, it is holding its own on restaurant wine lists. “Our Petit Chablis has been sold for 100 Euro in a three-star restaurant,” observes winemaker Julien Brocard of Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, highlighting the growing importance of the category in the marketplace.
So, when you see “Petit Chablis,” don’t think “Little Chablis.” Think “Portlandian Chablis,” which more accurately captures the wine’s relationship to its terroir and with the other Chablis AOCs.
The New Era of Petit Chablis
Producers are changing the way they treat Petit Chablis in the cellar, and that has contributed to the wine’s improving reputation. “Producers started treating Petit Chablis better,” says Sandrine Audegond. That’s what led to a change in the market.”
The majority of Petit Chablis is aged in stainless steel and produced to be sold and consumed relatively soon upon release.
“We do the same work on a Petit Chablis that we do on Premier Cru,” notes Hélène Defaix of Domaine Bernard Defaix. Julien Brocard of Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard feels similarly, noting, “We treat it [Petit Chablis] quasi-similar to Chablis except with less aging.”
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Different from the past, now you can find Petit Chablis produced in a round, rich style, and some producers are upping the ante with oak. Domaine Roland Lavantureux uses 15% second-use oak on their Petit Chablis and produces a game-changing bottling that will forever transform the way you think about the potential of Petit Chablis.
Value That’s Hard to Beat
So, why should you be paying attention to Petit Chablis now? The wine is a great value with increasing quality. It’s approaching the point where it can compete with Chablis, even if it’s not quite there yet.
Quite unusually, the Petit Chablis vineyard area is one of the few in the world that will benefit from climate change in the next decade. Third, given that the United States is the largest export market for Chablis by volume and value, there is plenty to be found.
Hélène Defaix offers up what may be one of the best reasons: “For me, Petit Chablis is cute,” she says. “It’s a fantastic value. You already have a name that everyone in the world knows, and you can [afford] it. You don’t have to sell your house.”
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