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California Zinfandel Is Getting Its Groove Back

California Zinfandel Is Getting Its Groove Back


As a native Californian, I’ve always wanted to like Zinfandel more.

Though its roots are in the Old World—it’s genetically identical to both Italy’s Primitivo and Croatia’s Crljenak Kaštelanski, which also goes by Pribidrag and Tribidrag—Zinfandel found popular footing in California’s original wine boom.

By the early 1900s, it was grown nearly everywhere in the state, from the redwoods of Mendocino and hillsides of Paso Robles down to the flats of Rancho Cucamonga and elsewhere throughout Southern California.

When the state’s modern wine industry took off in the 1970s, Zinfandel enjoyed distinct advantages. Not only did its jammy profile attract American consumers seeking ripe flavors, but many wines came from old-vine vineyards, which provided a romantic connection to the Golden State’s almost forgotten, pre-Prohibition wine history.

Ripeness was only amplified over the years, so much so that Zinfandel’s most famed producer, Ravenswood, adopted the tagline “No Wimpy Wines.”

That brash attitude was shared by others statewide, and nowhere was the ensuing extravagance more apparent than the Zinfandel Advocates and Producers (ZAP) consortium that formed in 1992.

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A San Francisco gathering of winemakers, grape growers and consumers, the annual bacchanalian affair attracted thousands to come sample tooth-staining Zins.

But as consumer tastes are shifting toward more elegant, less alcoholic wines, so is a lot of Zinfandel. I learned as much attending ZinEx back in 2020, which is the rebranded version of ZAP. 

That year’s three-day event put education on the forefront, showing many reasons to believe Zinfandel may get its groove back, albeit by doing a slightly different dance. 

The lessons I learned there hold true today, and will surely be on display next January, when the ZinEx Weekend Classic descends on the Napa Valley, celebrating the 35th anniversary of ZAP. 

Winemakers are exploring a variety of styles. I tasted powerful versions from Lodi, nuanced expressions from Sierra Foothills, savory styles from Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma and, perhaps most interestingly, sprightly spins from newer vines in Yolo County. 

Such a range only portends well for the future.


Light Bodied

Monte Rio Cellars 2022 Marian’s Vineyard Zinfandel (Lodi)

This wine is bright, lively, with aromas of bramble strawberry jam, ripe raspberry, dried herbs, and notes of star anise on the nose. The flavors on the palate are plum, cassis, acacia honey, Pink grapefruit, coriander, interlaced with tobacco leaf, earth, and a dry silky finish. Great study in old vine sites. Decant and Enjoy Pair Grilled with Blood Sausage. 95 Points — Tonya Pitts

$40
Lodi Wine

Vinos Finos de California 2023 Ink Claw Joullian Vineyard Zinfandel (Carmel Valley)

This is a fresh, young take on vines that were planted 40 years ago. Aromas of cherry, mint and cinnamon are juicy on the nose. The palate is zippy with an acidity that’s uncommon in Zinfandels. As tart cherry and cranberry flavors meet with delicate earth and meat elements. 91 Points — Matt Kettmann

$45
California Wines

Scar of the Sea 2021 Lopez Vineyard Zinfandel (Cucamonga Valley)

From dry-farmed vines that date back to 1918, this is a very unique Zinfandel, starting with aromas of Fernet-Branca, myrtle liqueur and sharply spiced fig jam. There’s a tense angle to the palate, giving a backdrop to the amaro-like flavors that float atop a strawberry-cream component. Editors’ Choice. 92 Points — M.K.

$42
Revel Wine

Age Worthy

Robert Biale 2022 Dickerson Vineyard Zinfandel (St. Helena)

Aromas of Bing cherry are greeted by flavors of mixed citrus, mint and wafts of cedar. It’s a sophisticated, detailed and intriguing wine with fine-grained tannins and a mouthwatering, long finish. Beautifully crafted and nuanced. Drink now or hold for continued aging. Cellar Selection. 96 Points — Elaine Chukan Brown

Inquire with Winery
Biale.com

Saxon Brown 2021 Fighting Brothers Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley)

There’s a lovely floral energy to the nose of this Zinfandel, with aromas of fresh violet moving in concert with deep blueberry and spiced fig notes. The palate is nimble and energetic, with spicy blackberry, raspberry and licorice flavors mingling and lingering across the finish. 93 Points — Tom R. Capo

$55
Wine Spectrum

Food Friendly

Frog’s Leap 2021 Zinfandel (Napa Valley)

Mouthwatering and delicious with crisp acidity and a driving finish, this wine offers a pleasing range of flavors including mixed cherries, cranberries, warming spices and savory accents. Both friendly and beguiling, it has pleasing approachability and depth. Firm while moderate tannins and mouthwatering acidity create a palate-cleansing accompaniment to a wide range of foods. Editors’ Choice. 94 Points — E.C.B.

$39
Total Wine & More

Lone Madrone 2021 Sheep Camp Zinfandel (Paso Robles Willow Creek District)

Subtle aromas of cherry, incense and oregano show on the nose of this bottling from 40-year-old vines on what’s now known as Old Oak Vineyard. Dried cherry flavors grow juicier with aeration, as pepper dust and garden herb aromas add depth. 91 Points — M.K.

Inquire with Winery
Lone Madrone

Earthy

Smith Story 2022 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley)

This aromatic and earthy wine brings aromas of black plum, lilacs and forest floor on the nose, while the palate shows dusty black cherry and blackberry flavors alongside whispers of tobacco, cedar and clove. More food-friendly than fruit bomb, this is Zin for steaks, lamb or venison on the grill. 92 Points — T.R.C.

$64
Smith Story

Rich and Powerful

Williams Selyem 2022 Bacigalupi Vineyard Zinfandel (Russian River Valley)

This elegant and complex Zin displays enchantingly pure aromas of red raspberry, cherry gastrique, black pepper and violets on the nose. The palate brings potent tannic structure, balanced beautifully with a wash of fresh raspberry-lemon acidity. Rest this for a few years and enjoy with roasted pork loin with cherry-cognac reduction. 95 Points — T.R.C.

$98
Wine Bank

Old Vine

Robert Biale 2022 R.W. Moore Vineyard Zinfandel (Coombsville)

Flavors of pomegranate, black plum, orange zest and root beer mean this Zinfandel is simultaneously friendly and impressively serious. The tannins are lightly grippy with the potential to age, while the palate is mouthwatering and lengthy. Complexity and detail makes this wine stand out. Cellar Selection. 97 Points — E.C.B.

$72
Taylor’s Wine Shop

Hubba 2021 Butch Enz Vineyard Zinfandel (Lime Kiln Valley)

Old vines meet modern style on this bottling by Riley Hubbard. Jubilant strawberry and inviting baking spice aromas show on the fresh and fun nose. The palate is bright and vibrant with amplified red-fruit flavors as well, but wrapped in a firm tension and a black-rock minerality. Editors’ Choice. 94 Points — M.K.

$75
Hubba Wines

Ridge 2021 Benito Dusi Zinfandel (Paso Robles)

This is a hedonistic style of Zin, starting with oak-soaked aromas of creamy black cherry, clove and vanilla on the nose. Roasted and stewed fruit flavors are surrounded by woodspice on the ripe palate, which would make an excellent barbecue wine. 92 Points — M.K.

$40
Wine Made Easy

Lava Cap 2023 Estate Grown Old Vine Zinfandel (El Dorado)

The old vine Zinfandel grown on this estate is legendary. The winery was founded in 1986 and has been a staple nationwide. On the nose, robust and concentrated aromatics include black currant confiture, boysenberry jam, cardamom, dried florals, and notes of ginger. On the palate, flavors include ripe and tart raspberry, blackberry jam, dried black mission fig, and orange marmalade layered throughout the palate on the finish. 93 Points — T.P.

$34
Lava Cap

Bogle 2022 Old Vine Zinfandel (California)

This old vine Zinfandel is rich with aromas of spiced raspberry, strawberry, orange pekoe black tea, clove and vanilla on the nose. The mouthfeel is sumptuous with juicy tannins, aromas from the nose repeat on the palate as the delicious flavors in this wine. The finish is long and dry. Best Buy. 91 Points — T.P.

$12
Bogle Winery

High Elevation

Lava Cap 2022 Zinfandel (El Dorado)

The El Dorado AVA has always been known for high-elevation Zinfandel. The highest peaks are at 2700ft, so the fruit is rich and concentrated but with full flavors that are not saturated. The fruit is ripe in this selection, with bramble raspberry, blackberry, clove, and floral notes on the nose. The flavors on the palate are boysenberry, dark plum, grilled orange zest, chicory, and dusty tannins to finish. Aerate and Drink. 93 Points — T.P.

$33
Yiannis Wine

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Field Blends

Ridge 2022 Lytton Springs 50th Anniversary Red (Dry Creek Valley)

The densely packed nose of this legendary old vine field blend of Zin, Petite Sirah, Carignane, and Alicante gives aromas of crushed blackberry, purple flowers and rich earthy spices, while the palate brings black cherry, olive and licorice flavors in a framework of opulent tannin that will age effortlessly for more than a decade. Cellar Selection. 96 Points — T.R.C.

$48
Wine.com

Hook or Crook 2021 Winemaker’s Select Field Blend Red (Lodi)

This wine is rich, concentrated, ripe blue, black fruits, florals, interlaced clove, allspice, dried herbs, bittersweet chocolate, cascading silky tannins, earth, espresso, cycling back to boysenberries, blackberries, cinnamon, cocoa and finishing dry. Aerate for 30 minutes and enjoy with your favorite protein. 92 Points — T.P.

$10
B21

Post & Vine 2019 Testa Vineyard Old Vine Field Blend Red (Mendocino)

This balanced blend of Carignan, Zinfandel and Petite Sirah offers pleasant notes of roses, strawberry preserves, red plum compote, black and white pepper, and red currant jelly. 89 Points — Stacy Briscoe

$34
Backroom Wines

Pet-Nat

Breaking Bread 2023 Pet Nat Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley)

Bright pink and showing lively effervescence, this Pet-Nat of Zinfandel brings zippy raspberry lime fruit aromas on the nose. The palate is very fruity, with flavors of reduced strawberry, orange marmalade and berry coulis. It’s a fun, fruit driven style that’s meant for easy drinking. 89 Points— T.R.C.

$29
Mr. D Wine Merchant


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