Poderi Luigi Einaudi: A 125-Year Legacy and the 2022 Barolo Preview
The Soul of Dogliani in the Heart of Barolo: A 125-Year Journey with Poderi Luigi Einaudi
There are moments in a wine writer’s journey where the past, present, and future converge in a single glass. Recently, I had the distinct pleasure of sitting down with Matteo Sardagna Einaudi to celebrate a monumental milestone: the 125th anniversary of Poderi Luigi Einaudi. We raised a glass to the Poderi Luigi Einaudi 2022 Barolo, a wine that beautifully represents tradition and innovation.
For those who know the history of Italy, the name Einaudi carries weight. Luigi Einaudi was not only the founder of this estate in 1897 but also the first President of the Italian Republic. Yet, despite the political prestige, the heart of this estate has always remained in the soil, specifically the steep, marl-rich hills of Dogliani and the prestigious crus of Barolo.
A New Chapter: The 2016 Pivot
Every great estate undergoes a metamorphosis. For Einaudi, a significant turning point arrived in 2016 following the passing of their long-time oenologist. This transition allowed the family to re-examine their P.O.V. on winemaking. As Matteo explained, the modern philosophy is now laser-focused on one thing: Freshness.
In an era where climate change is pushing alcohol levels higher and fruit into the “jammy” spectrum, Einaudi is pivoting. The goal now is to “keep freshness more time” and ensure the wines “don’t go in tertiary” too quickly. They want the primary energy, the electric pulse of the Nebbiolo grape, to vibrate in the bottle for decades.
To achieve this, the oak program has been refined. While they utilize 70% Barrique and 20% New Oak, the integration is seamless. I noticed a recurring aromatic bridge in the wines: a transition from delicate violet to savory liquorice, a signature of their sophisticated wood management.
The 2022 Vintage: Small Berries, Big Excitement
The primary focus of our tasting was the 2022 vintage. It was a year defined by heat and drought—conditions that often strike fear into the hearts of growers. However, the result at Einaudi was “exciting.” The vines produced remarkably small berries, leading to a concentrated skin-to-juice ratio that provided incredible structural integrity and aromatic intensity.
The Tasting Flight: A Tour of the MGAs
We began with the Barolo “Ludo” DOCG 2022. Ludo is often the gateway to the Einaudi Barolo style, and the 2022 is a triumph of accessibility. With mild tannins and an elegant, lifted profile, it is a wine that is truly “ready to drink” now, even while its bigger siblings require patience.
Moving into the specific crus (MGAs), the Barolo “Monvigliero” DOCG 2022 was a standout for its “Burgundian” soul. Located on a hilltop in Verduno, this vineyard is famous for its floral elegance. My notes were filled with descriptors of the “earth floor” i.e. notes of humidity and forest mushrooms. It is a savory, cerebral wine, accented by blood orange and a floral lift. Matteo mentioned that some producers in this MGA are experimenting with whole clusters, which only adds to that spice-driven, ethereal Monvigliero charm.
Next was the legendary Barolo “Cannubi” DOCG 2022. If Barolo has a “Grand Cru,” this is it. Growing in the sandy soils of the “Castle of Barolo” area, this wine is all about menthol and balsamic tension. The acidity here doesn’t just sit on the palate; it “calls for more food or another sip.” It is the definition of a gastronomic wine.
We then shifted to the Barolo “Terlo Vigna Costa Grimaldi” DOCG 2022. This vineyard holds a special place in the family history, purchased in 1996 by Matteo’s grandfather. This is a “classic” Barolo—layered and deep. While it shows beautiful notes of chocolate and fruit, the tannins are serious. It is a wine that benefits greatly from micro-oxygenation, revealing its complexity slowly, layer by layer.
Intensity and Approachability
The Barolo “Bussia” DOCG 2022 brought a shift in density. Sourced from 6 hectares in the Gabutti area of Monforte d’Alba (just 1km from Cannubi), this wine felt “meatier.” The tannins are juicy and intense, providing a structural weight that carries notes of blood orange and rich earth.
In contrast, the Barolo “Rocche di Castiglione” DOCG 2022 was surprisingly approachable. It managed to capture the finesse of Castiglione Falletto with a charm that made it stand out as one of the most “friendly” wines of the flight.
We rounded out the young wines with the Barolo “Villero” DOCG 2022. Currently, this wine is “close” and “shy.” It’s a powerhouse of balsamic and meaty notes that is holding its cards close to its chest. It has immense potential, but like all great Villero expressions, it demands the cellar.
The Library Comparison: 1999 Vigna Costa Grimaldi
The “aha” moment of the tasting came when we opened a bottle of the Barolo “Vigna Costa Grimaldi” DOCG 1999. This was a window into a different era, different winemaker, different approach.
In 1999, the approach was more “aggressive” with oak and extraction (using the macine or traditional stone maceration). Tasting it alongside the 2022 was a masterclass in evolution. While the 1999 showed the rugged, masculine power of traditional Barolo, the 2022 Terlo showed a more polished, luminous path forward. It proved that while the estate honors its 125-year history, it isn’t a prisoner to it.
Closing Thoughts: More Than Just Nebbiolo
While we spent the afternoon immersed in the MGAs of Barolo, a brief mention of Dolcetto was necessary. Einaudi is, at its heart, a champion of Dogliani. There is a saying at the estate: “Not drinking Nebbiolo” when referring to their Dolcetto. It serves as a reminder that before the world fell in love with Barolo, the local people fell in love with Dolcetto.
Poderi Luigi Einaudi is currently in a “Golden Age.” Under Matteo’s leadership, the estate is producing wines that are technically flawless but emotionally resonant. They are wines that tell the story of the 125 years that came before them, while looking forward to the next century of freshness.
Whether you are looking for the ready-to-enjoy elegance of Ludo or the cellaring potential of Villero, Einaudi remains a beacon of Piedmontese excellence.
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