As Texas Wine Explodes, These Are the 7 Grapes to Watch

When I was asked to begin covering and reviewing Texas wines, I started by talking to sommeliers, winemakers and growers around the Lone Star State. These conversations told the story of a nascent wine region that’s beginning to find its form, even if it’s more known around the world for barbecued beef than for Burgundian varietals.

Interestingly, Franciscan missionaries planted Texas with Vitis vinifera way back in the 1600s, only to have that early momentum stalled by Prohibition. With the clock reset, Texas growers are now starting to find the best combinations of soil, climate and varietal to maximize their craft.

In the words of two-decade veteran Texas winemaker and Provence native Bénédicte Rhyne: “We’re still in the discovery mode, figuring out what can grow where.”

The Quirks of Texas Winegrowing

What complicates winegrowing in Texas is the intensity of the growing season. Severe frosts, hail and extreme winds can all occur after budbreak, and summer temperatures absolutely soar with a smaller diurnal shift.

“We have to do things a little bit different because it gets to be 110 degrees out there during the day,” says Michael Barton, winemaker for Signor Vineyards in Fredricksburg. “I think we’re getting better every year, but there’s a lot to learn still. We’ll be pioneers for the next 50 years.”

Texas currently has eight established AVAs (with three more under consideration), and while these appellations are spread around the state, there are two that dominate production.

The Texas High Plains AVA, at the western edge of the state, sits on a large, generally flat plateau between 3000 to 4000 feet in elevation. This region produces the vast majority of grapes from Texas, and growers from other zones frequently include fruit from here to enhance their blends.

The next largest growing zone is the Texas Hill Country AVA, west of Austin, where many wineries are located. The elevation here is lower, and the diurnal shift is even smaller, making for an earlier harvest. However, the producers think that the mixed soils that contain limestone, clay and alluvial deposits are conducive to crafting world-class wines.

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It’s here that two of the three proposed new AVAs are being considered. Jackie Mancuso, who leads Atlas Vineyard Management’s Texas team, believes that the soils have potential. “We do have a fair amount of limestone and so some of the soils can be pretty well drained,” she says. “I think rootstock and clone selection is very important for success.” Growers are noting the differences and experimenting with less common varietals, in addition to classics like Cabernet, Merlot and Chardonnay.

Here are some of up-and-coming varieties that I’m most excited to taste from around Texas.

Alamy

Mourvèdre

This heat-tolerant variety can thrive in the Texas sun, capitalizing on the early budbreak and consistent warmth that comes with a bit of altitude and a far less dramatic diurnal shift.

Examples are found in the Texas Hill Country and Texas High Plains AVAs, where this variety ripens easily, but can be softer than versions from Spain or Southern France. Since Texas is generally regarded as being too hot for Pinot Noir, Mourvèdre has been filling the gap for some drinkers who prefer a slightly lighter-bodied red.

Picpoul Blanc

If there’s one grape that popped up in every conversation I had about Texas, it’s Picpoul. This clean, bright white from the Rhône delivers vibrant acidity, even from the warm, short growing seasons in Texas.

Every producer I spoke with has started working with it or was considering finding a source. Robert Nida, founder of Pebble Rock Cellars in Johnson City, has a pretty good idea of why it’s become so popular. “It keeps its natural acidity, so it’s one of those varieties where you can pick it at different [sugar] levels and just do so many different things with it,” he says.

With tropical zippiness, floral notes and a crisp, zesty finish, this up-and-comer might be the Texas answer for lovers of Savvy B.

Tempranillo

If there’s a classic global region that Texas reminds me of, Rioja tops the list. The consistent heat, high plateau and wind pressure all make me think of times spent visiting the home of Tempranillo.

A thicker-skinner grape that handles heat well, Tempranillo shows plush red fruit, spice and depth, making a medium-plus bodied red that has the potential for both easy consumption and cellaring.

Viognier

In tastings and competitions, Viognier has shown that it belongs in conversations about noble varieties for Texas. The robust peachy fruit flavors and floral notes come into focus quickly here, so pick date is crucial. When growers nail it and keep the balancing acidity, these wines can compete with the best in the world.

Aglianico

This full-bodied Southern Italian variety from Campania delivers rich tannin, rustic flavors and spice. Growers in the Texas High Plains and Texas Hill Country AVAs are finding that it can develop ripeness and richness in the somewhat extreme Texas climate. I’m intrigued to see how Aglianico’s signature herbal aromas evolve in this unique setting.

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Tannat

Tannat is another grape with rich tannin and the ability to handle heat. The most famous examples come from Madiran, in Southwestern France where small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon are added to soften the wines (yes, you read that correctly). It’s also considered the national grape of Uruguay, though it’s starting to take off in Virginia, too.

I’ve only tasted a few examples of this powerhouse from outside of France, so I’m keen to see what the variety can do in some of the best AVAs in Texas.

Souzao

This Portuguese red grape, used for both sweet Port and dry reds, isn’t seen much on this side of the Atlantic. Texas may be a new hotbed.

Michael Nelson, winemaker for family-owned Ab Astris Winery in Fredericksburg is excited about the two acres that are planted on their estate vineyard. “[It’s] fantastic,” he says. “It’s got great color, so you get that really deep inky appearance and you’re like, ‘my god, this is either going to rip my face off or be like sugary sweet,’ but it’s neither of those things. It retains its acidity very well and isn’t overbearing with the tannins.”

Looking Ahead

With this rash of new varieties gaining steam, it’s a brave new world, but Texas winemakers aren’t daunted. Just ask Jackie van Sant Downes, the winemaker for Driftwood Estate Winery in Driftwood, who recently returned to her native Texas after many years in Sonoma County.

She’s in the process of switching her namesake brand Jaclynn Renee Wines from Sonoma-based wines to Texas-sourced ones. “We want to make wines that can stand up and hold up versus other regions,” she says. “Texas can grow really good grapes, but there’s still such a stigma around it. I just want to show people what Texas wines are. They’re really wonderful.”

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