Burgundy vs. Bordeaux: France’s Ultimate Duel

Two wine regions, both alike in dignity and home to some of the most sought-after wines on the planet, are battling out for the title of France’s best.

On one side: Bordeaux, an area long synonymous with covetable, collectible red blends. On the other: Burgundy, a historic growing area known for its ethereal single-varietal wines and UNESCO World Heritage terroir.

Both are held in the highest regard, yet the two regions couldn’t have a more different ethos and energy.

“Burgundy is a choir of muses: vaunted, ethereal, aspirational,” says Dan Davis of New Orleans’ legendary Commander’s Palace. “Bordeaux is the tabernacle organ—the deepest old pipes agelessly improving and calling up foggy memories of better days.”

Both regions produce bottlings that differ from the still wines for which they are best known such as sparklers, Bordeaux’s sweet Sauternes and Burgundy’s other white, Aligote. However, for the purposes of this throwdown, we’re looking at the differences between Bordeaux’s powerful blends and Burgundy’s soulful Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

To simply sum up the differences between these two drastically different styles Aldo Sohm, of Aldo Sohm Wine Bar and Le Bernardin, and author of Wine Simple, says, “Comparing Bordeaux and Burgundy is like comparing fish and meat.”

So, which is which, and how do these two regions square up against each other? Let the games begin!

The Grapes: Sensual vs. Structural

There’s no headliner variety in Bordeaux. Instead, varieties—chosen over centuries for their flavor, fertility and disease resistance—work in concert with each other.

On the Left Bank, Cabernet Sauvignon (tannic, bold, requiring age) sits first chair, while Merlot (precocious, spicy and soft) leads the Right Bank.

Bordeaux wines tend to have a forceful charm—a brooding, moreness from Cabernet and plush, structure from Merlot. Both are accompanied by Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec.

Principal white grapes in the region include Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, which produce crisp, aromatic or often oak-aged whites.

In 2021, the Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux approved six heat-resistant varieties, both red and white, including Arinarnoa, Castets, Marselan, Touriga Nacional, Alvarinho and Liliorila to help protect the future of its famous blends.

These grapes come together under the firm guidance of the winemaker. Blending and oak aging is common practice to make balanced, layered, consistent bottlings.

“Bordeaux is one of the greatest values in the wine world when it comes down to tradition, quality and aging potential,” says Pier-Alexis Soulière, a Master Sommelier who has won the title of best sommelier in Quebec, Canada, and the Americas. “If people want to buy wine to drink in 20 years, I will direct them to Bordeaux.”

Burgundy focuses the majority of its attention on two noble grapes: Chardonnay (a descendent of Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc) and Pinot Noir. Both are captivating, expressive and largely bottled as single varietals, though specifics are shaped by where it’s planted, as both tend to show off a sense of place.

“Whites, in particular, are being made in a beautiful way, with producers opting for focused, linear styles and more lees contact—doing away with excess oak unless the terroir calls for it,” says Anna-Christina Cabrales, Wine Enthusiast’s Tasting Director.

“At the Grand Cru level, white wines leave a certain dimension and mouthfeel that is like a spirit,” she adds. “It stops in for a dense moment in time then continues to revisit.”

In a similar vein, Soulière is continually impressed by the way Burgundian winemakers “transform a grape that doesn’t taste like much, like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and bring it to an incredible level of complexity.”

The Regions: Cold and Continental vs. Cold and Maritime

The region’s greatest similarities—beyond language, of course—are their climate. Both are cool, experiencing proper frigid winters and frequent blankets of fog.

But Bordeaux’s climate is moderate and maritime, defined by its proximity to both the Atlantic Ocean and the Gironde estuary (and its tributary rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne) which help regulate temperature.

Meanwhile Burgundy is continental with large temperature swings between seasons and made up of a mosaic of seemingly endless individually named climat (essentially vineyards) each defined by its own micro-terroir.

“That’s the true influence of Burgundy—encapsulating a piece of land and making the most of it,” says Soulière. “It’s such a small region, but it has influenced the world with single-vineyard approaches to winemaking and viticulture. Even Bordeaux is influenced by Burgundy—you’re now seeing more single-vineyard labels.”

The small size that Soulière refers to is another big difference between the two regions. Burgundy produces around 200 million bottles a year, meanwhile Bordeaux’s 7,000 or wineries produce around 700 million a year.

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This difference in size has its pros and cons.

Cost is one major contrast—and can be both good and bad depending on what you’re looking for and who you ask.

Burgundy’s limit to production, new plantings and recent extreme weather events driven by climate change have driven up prices of even baseline bottlings.

“I think what’s the high pricing today is mostly the scarcity of it—it’s like the watch industry or the bag industry,” says Matthieu Yamoum, COO and co-owner of Maison Mura in Miami. “People see Burgundy as an investment.”

Bordeaux wines can definitely be an investment, too, at the high-end. Many start off abrasive when young, but age to perfection.

“After 10, 15 years Bordeaux becomes a different wine—you get these dried fruit notes and wood,” says Yamoum. “You can drink them in 100 years and they’ll still be good.”

So, Which Is the Victor?

This throwdown is a tough one. Like so many things in life, there’s a lot of nuance that makes it difficult to pick a clear winner and everyone you ask has a different opinion.

For one, Bordeaux’s massive scale has led to a surplus of low-end wines—to the point that grape growers have been campaigning to rip out vineyards and destroy existing stock—which has somewhat tarnished its former enviable reputation. “It gives a bad image to the region,” says Yamoum.

But there are benefits to larger production, especially in a region known for its age-worthy wines. It’s not hard to find older bottles that have reached their prime.

“If I wanted 1982 Bordeaux, I could make a few calls and have some in the shop next week,” says Yamoum. “If I wanted 1982 Burgundy? Good luck. I’d have to wait for a good auction.”

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Comparing Burgundy and Bordeaux goes beyond grapes and land—it’s also about vibes.

Burgundy is defined by ethereal, lighter-style wines that have become more popular these days. The region “has achieved top status because of what consumers want to drink right now—Chardonnay and Pinot,” says Sohm.

Cabrales, who reviews Burgundy wines for Wine Enthusiast, is one member of the region’s legion of fans. “I’ve had more religious experiences with Burgundy,” she says. “Burgundy is a poet, a philosopher, a romantic.”

Though there are many in that camp, other pros, like Somm, lean more toward the middle. “It depends what you’re looking for,” he says. “Both regions deserve major credit, but what you like is totally subjective.”

Those who prefer to age their wines, likely gravitate toward Bordeaux, Somm adds: “If a serious wine collector reflected on their ten most popular wines, I guarantee a minimum of two to three would be Bordeaux right?”