How to Make Sweet Potato Pudding Even Better? Add Booze

“I want to dispel the myths of what America thinks Black cooking is and is not,” says Ashleigh Santi, chef and owner of Good Hot Fish in Asheville, North Carolina.

Items that typically fall under “soul food,” like fried chicken and macaroni and cheese, might fit the bill, she continues, “but there’s just so much more depth,” she says about the African American culinary cannon and greater Southern cuisine.

Though many Americans tend to lump all soul and Southern food into the same general pot, the region and its varied fare is not a single entity. Santi expands upon this idea in her recently released cookbook, Our South: Black Food Through My Lens.

In the tome, Santi highlights the distinct cuisines from the backcountry of Southern Appalachia to the lowlands of Tidewater, Virginia. These “microregions,” as she calls them, demonstrate the diversity of Southern cooking—and how varied it can be from the fried, heavily meat-based and unhealthy dishes that most associate with this part of the nation.

Our South explores the smaller, culturally linked areas that were instrumental in her upbringing and evolved understanding of the region. Growing up in coastal Virginia, Santi was heavily influenced by her parents’ roots across southern Appalachia, southwestern Virginia and other parts of the Southeast. The food she was raised on drew influences from all of the above—a cultural elixir of its own kind that for Santi, was really special.

“I think people don’t realize how vegetable forward it can be,” she says. “We take these very simple humble ingredients and elevate them to another level.”

According to Santi, the farm-to-table movement isn’t merely a trend but rather how Southerners have cooked for generations. “If it’s growing around you, then that’s what you’re going to use to feed your family,” she says.

This is why sweet potatoes, which are ripe and ready to eat come fall, are a Thanksgiving staple across the South. The vibrant tubers show up in the form of pies, casseroles and—in this boozy rendition—pudding.

Sweet potato pudding isn’t necessarily traditional, but if you’re in a pinch for dessert, this simple holiday-ready recipe is sure to please.

Booze (in this case bourbon) elevates the celebratory aspect of this dish, in addition to lending notes of caramel nuttiness. Top it off with whipped cream, and you’ve got a sweet, seasonal dessert that’s sure to impress dinner guests.

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How to Make Drunken Sweet Potato Pudding

Recipe adapted from Our South: Black Food Through My Lens by Ashleigh Shanti; @_foodordeath.

Serves six

1 small sweet potato, scrubbed
½ cup packed dark brown sugar
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup heavy cream
½ cup whole milk
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 large egg, at room temperature
2 large egg yolks, at room temperature
2 tablespoons cornstarch
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon bourbon
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

1 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon confectioners’ sugar

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Step 1

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a quarter baking sheet with parchment paper.

Step 2

Using a fork, prick the sweet potato three or four times all over. Place on the prepared baking sheet and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until fork-tender. Let cool, then run through a food mill to make a smooth puree. Set aside.

Step 3

In a medium Dutch oven, stir together the brown sugar and salt. Cook over medium heat, undisturbed, allowing the sugar to melt until the mixture caramelizes and appears dark brown in color, 10 to 12 minutes.

Step 4

Slowly and carefully whisk in the cream, milk, and granulated sugar. Increase the heat to medium-high and cook until the mixture liquefies again, 1 to 2 minutes more. Remove from the heat and cover to keep warm.

Step 5

In a heatproof medium bowl, whisk together the egg, egg yolks and cornstarch.

Step 6

Using a ladle, carefully scoop up 1 cup of the sugar mixture and very slowly drizzle the mixture into the eggs, vigorously and continuously whisking so the eggs don’t scramble.

Step 7

Pour that mixture into the pot with the remaining sugar mixture and return the pot to the heat over medium-high.

Step 8

Cook, whisking continuously, until the pudding thickens and begins a slow simmer, 1 to 2 minutes. Whisk in 1⁄2 cup of the sweet potato puree, the butter, bourbon and vanilla, then
remove from the heat.

Step 9

Portion the pudding into small ramekins, cover each with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours, until the pudding is set.

Step 10

Make the whipped cream: In the chilled bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the cream and confectioners’ sugar until soft peaks form. Serve the pudding topped with a dollop of the whipped cream.