It’s Time to Get to Know Rioja
No region is more synonymous with Spanish wine than Rioja. Sprawling along the Ebro river in North Central Spain, Rioja has built its reputation on red wines that balance elegance and power.
Though it most often stars its signature Tempranillo grape, these red blends can include other varietals like Garnacha and Graciano. They’re celebrated for their ageability and complexity, most of which comes from the region’s distinct aging classifications.
Unlike other wine regions, where hierarchy is exclusively built around terroir or vineyard quality, Rioja’s system centers around how long a wine ages in barrel and bottle before its released to the market. The aging framework, which ranges from the Crianza label’s two total years to Gran Reserva’s five total years, is a promise to the consumer that each bottle meets the region’s standards for excellence.
Though age is the main hierarchy through which Rioja wines are labeled, Elaine Chukan Brown, WE Writer at Large and reviewer of wines from Rioja, sees Spanish winemakers becoming increasingly interested in conveying terroir, especially in the sub-regions of Rioja Alta, Rioja Baja and Rioja Alavesa. “Tempranillo built to age remains an important part of the region. At the same time, a move from a notion of house style, historically common there, is shifting to a focus on nuances of place in the region,” they say. “New designations point to wine made from a specific village, or niche area of the region, as well as single vineyard wines.”
While Rioja’s reds might be the main attraction, its white, rosé and sparkling offerings have been steadily gaining traction with consumers for their crisp, floral profiles.
Whether you want to explore this rising crop of lighter wines or learn more about the region’s robust reds, we’ve outlined everything you need to know on the wines of Rioja below, with corresponding bottles handpicked from our tasting department.
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Crianza
Of Rioja’s red wine aging designations, Crianzas have the shortest time requirement, needing to have spent a total of two years aging in both bottle or barrel (at least one year in oak) before being released. This period allows Tempranillo’s black-fruit aromas of plum, cherry and currant to blossom and shine.
For many drinkers, Crianza is their first foray into Rioja’s red wine world, as well as the most approachable. Its vivid red fruit flavors layer with hints of spice and vanilla from the oak barrel, but they maintain a brightness that makes them especially food-friendly. As Brown puts it, “Crianza delivers sophistication with verve and fruit purity.”
Throw in a typically affordable pricepoint? We’re sold.
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
Altanza 2020 Crianza Tempranillo (Rioja)
Firm berries and dark chocolate lift from the glass, and carry into a mouthwatering palate. Stimulating acidity provides a fresh, lengthy finish, and refreshing depth of flavor. Best Buy. 92 Points — Elaine Chukan Brown
$16
Redneck Wine Company
Ramón Bilbao 2021 Crianza Tempranillo (Rioja)
Red and black plums mix with blackberries and tobacco leaf. A concentrated midpalate carries the wine on moderate tannins with plenty of length. 90 Points — E.C.B.
$13
Vine Republic
Luis Alegre 2021 Crianza Tempranillo (Rioja)
Ripe berries and stone fruits combine with savory herbs and a light, warming sweetness that brings pleasure alongside abundant tannins into a compelling finish. Consider decanting. 90 Points — E.C.B.
$12
Decántalo
Reserva
Moving up from Crianza in age, Reserva represents Rioja’s sweet spot between youth and maturity. Reds must age for a minimum of three years, including at least one in barrel, lending the wines deeper and darker plum, dark cherry and blackberry flavors, framed by stronger oak-influenced notes of baking spice, vanilla and chocolate. It takes the aromas in Crianza and kicks it up like five notches.
Reservas are made by both boutique producers and larger wineries, giving the category a breadth of styles. These wines span from more fruit-driven expressions to intensely-spiced. They’re versatile, and can match up to stronger flavors in food pairings, like pork dishes or roasted poultry.
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
Marqués de Vargas 2019 Reserva Tempranillo-Mazuelo (Rioja)
Spiced fruits and sweet tobacco spun with balsamic fill the mouth with mouthwatering flavor and melting tannins. Satin texture and a lengthy finish make an attractive and delicious wine. Best Buy. 94 Points — E.C.B.
$29
Decántalo
Manzanos 2015 125 Aniversario Reserva Red (Rioja)
Ruby in the glass, fresh fruits combine with cocoa and coffee grounds and a mineral finish for a refined Rioja built to age. Supple tannins coat the palate while lifted acidity provides length. Cellar Selection. 93 Points — E.C.B.
$120
Total Wine & More
Valenciso 2018 Rioja Reserva Tempranillo (Rioja)
Depth and finesse reveal a sophisticated Rioja with plenty of flavor and the structure to continue developing with a few more years in bottle. A mix of dark fruits, graphite, and well-integrated spice through a long finish. 93 Points — E.C.B.
$33
Empire Wine
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Gran Reserva
Rioja’s elder statesmen, Gran Reserva reds are the ultimate example of patience makes perfect. With the longest aging requirement of five years (at least two of which must be in barrel), Gran Reservas are heavy in oak influence, often expressing tones of earth, toast and coffee with dried fruit aromas. Brown says, “Here wines of depth, introspection and savory complexity can be found.”
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
La Rioja Alta 2010 Gran Reserva 890 Red (Rioja)
Beautiful, refined, finessed and filled with complexity, this is an example of wine worth waiting for. Flavors of tobacco, licorice, mixed fruits and an aromatic, floral lift. Ample while melting tannins pleasantly coat the mouth then carry into a long, stimulating finish. Impressive. 97 Points — E.C.B.
$300
Total Wine & More
Monte Real 2018 Gran Reserva Tempranillo (Rioja)
Enticing aromas and a silken mouthfeel deliver a Tempranillo that is full bodied, full of flavor, and refined. Fresh herbs, mixed berries and plums, and a pleasing dusting of cocoa and earthiness through a long finish make a satisfying wine. 95 Points — E.C.B.
$12
Decántalo
Beronia 2017 Gran Reserva Red (Rioja)
Pleasing aromatics and a mouthwatering flavor carry spiced cocoa and ripe blackberries, sweet plum and dark chocolate through the finish. Fine, taut tannins stimulate the palate through a lengthy finish. Delicious wine. Editor’s Choice. 94 Points — E.C.B.
$30
Decántalo
White Wine and Rosé
It’s no secret that white wine’s star is on the rise across the globe. In Spain, light-skinned varietals like Albariño and Godello have seized the spotlight. Although Rioja Blanco might not have the same name recognition as the aforementioned wines, Brown says, these “whites have always had a compelling role in Rioja.”
The Viura grape, also known as Macabeo, is the most widely planted white varietal in the region. It’s known for its layers of salty complexity and weight offset by bold acidity. “Viura offers beautiful floral aromatics,” says Brown. “Today, it can be found as a crisp, aromatic, dry wine as well as a richer, textured wine aged in oak. Both are captivating.”
Rioja Blanco blends must contain at least 51% Viura, which lends depth and ageability. They can also include Tempranillo Blanco, which provides herbaceousness and acidity; low-acid Malvasía for added body, Garnacha Blanca, Maturana Blanca as well as a few international grapes.
Somewhere between blanco and tinto, you’ll find Rioja’s rosé (or, rosado). Typically made with grape varieties found in the region’s red wines, these wines are made via direct press, where grapes are de-stemmed and pressed with little contact with the skins and the blended claret press process in which both red and white varieties are pressed together.
Both rosados and blancos are subject to the same regulations in Rioja’s aging classification system but with shorter time in barrel: Joven or unspecified (no aging requirement), Crianza (aged for 12 months, with six months in barrel), Reserva (two years with six months in barrel) and Gran Reserva (five years aging with six months in barrel).
Valenciso 2022 Blanco Fermentado En Barriqua Rioja (Rioja)
Viura and Grenache Blanc grown at moderate elevation in calcareous soils carry a chalky tension balanced by just enough weight to please the palate and a long finish of almost-creamy, spiced fruits. 91 Points — E.C.B.
$37
Mr. D Wine Merchant
Contino 2021 San Gregorio White (Rioja)
Aromas of nectarine, Honeycrisp apple and white chocolate with a touch of oyster shell emanate from the glass. Flavors of passion fruit, lemon-lime, crème brûlée and orange blossom mingle with lively acidity and then evaporate into a citrus- and floral-infused finish. Drink through 2031. Cellar Selection. 94 Points — Mike DeSimone
$55
Wine.com
Muga 2022 Flor de Muga Rosé (Rioja)
Pale blush to the eye, this wine has a bouquet of honeydew and dried sage. Flavors of kumquat, tangerine, almond blossom and fennel mingle with light acidity and leave a rose-scented imprint on the palate. 93 Points — M.D.
$38
Wine Watch
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Sparkling Wines
Move over Champagne: “Sparkling wine from Rioja is one of its most exciting finds today,” says Brown.
Winemakers have been crafting traditional method sparklers with elegance and class in the region for over 100 years.
These bottlings are wholly unique. Whereas Chardonnay and Pinot Noir dominate sparkling blends throughout many parts of Europe and much of the world, in Rioja they take a backseat. Instead, these bubbles lean on local varieties like Tempranillo, Malvasía, Viura, Graciano and more.
Like everything else in Rioja, sparklers adhere to a stringent aging classification system. Espumoso de Rioja requires 15 months of aging on the lees. Reservas must be aged on the lees for at least 24 months. Brown’s favorite, Gran Añada, must be aged for a minimum of 36 months on the lees.
Carlos Serres 2019 Método Tradicional Brut Sparkling (Rioja)
This sparkler from Rioja has a steady mousse and aromas of Fuji apple, lemon zest and slivered almonds. It opens on the palate with Bartlett pear and white-peach flavors and notes of hazelnut, baking bread and honeysuckle that culminate in a bright, lemon-splashed finish. Best Buy. 92 Points — M.D.
$23
Ultimate Wine & Spirits
Fernández de Piérola NV Brut Nature White (Rioja)
Aromatics of crisp apple, and toasted brioche lift from a creamy mousse followed by a racy, taut palate. Palate cleansing with a refreshing mineral finish. 90 Points — E.C.B.
Inquire With the Winery
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