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It’s Time to Get to Know the Loire Valley Beyond Sancerre
If the only thing you know about the Loire is Sancerre, you’re sorely missing out. Here’s where to start.
By Reggie Solomon Wine Enthusiast Writer at Large and reviewer of wines from France (Beaujolais, Loire Valley), Southern Coastal Spain (Andalucia, Murcia, Valencia), Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Israel, Macedonia, Montenegro & Asia.
There is so much more to love about the Loire Valley beyond Sancerre, the friendly wine-by-the-glass superstar you’ll find on every restaurant’s wine list.
You don’t have to be a wine geek to appreciate wines from the Loire; there is something for everyone. As the third largest wine-producing region in France by volume, the Loire is home to a wide range of wine styles, from dry to sweet and from still to sparkling.
White wine leads the region, where production is 37% white, 29% rosé, 18% red and 16% sparkling. The Loire boasts exciting, single-varietal bottled wines including Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Melon Blanc (Muscadet), Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and even Gamay in all colors and styles. These wines are generally fresh and balanced with bright acidity and are mostly sustainably made.
But, until recently, these incredible bottlings have been flying under the radar. “The Loire Valley has always been a forgotten part of the wine world in France,” says Viginie Joly, winemaker and managing director at Famille Joly La Coulée de Serrant.
Part of this relates to distribution: only 22% of production is exported compared to 45% in Bordeaux and 56% in Champagne. But the region is working to increase exports to 30% of production by 2030. A surge in availability, paired with American somms’ newfound obsession with its lower abv, high-acid bottlings, means you’ll likely be seeing a lot more of them around in the years to come. But here’s what’s happening in the Loire now.
Table of Contents
Weather Report
Trend Report
Futurecast
What to Drink Right Now
Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
Savennières
Chinon
Sancerre
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Weather Report
The Loire covers an expansive land area with climates that range from maritime in the west to continental in the east. Historically, this area, which is one of the northernmost wine regions in France, has been considered a cooler weather region but that is shifting due to climate change. Riper, fuller vintages have become more common in recent decades. Spring frosts, which once occurred every ten years, now come nearly every year in varying intensity. Here’s how that’s been playing out over the last several years.
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2024
2024 was a trying vintage for all of France, the Loire included, due to bad weather. Flowering took a hit from frost and a cold start to the growing season. Humid weather conditions negatively impacted fruit. Hailstorms, heavy rainfall and below-average temperatures throughout the entire season led to mildew and a dramatically reduced production volume. This is a winemaker’s vintage that benefits from skill in the cellar. Whites are minerally, bright and lower in alcohol than previous years, while reds have rounded tannins and energetic acidity.
2023
This is a fresh and fruity vintage. Weather in 2023 was a challenge, but fortunately not due to frost. A cold winter gave way to a wet April and a hot and humid June, which created the perfect conditions for mildew and acid rot. A warm end of August helped ripen grapes, but a rainy September impacted harvest for those who needed to wait until their grapes reached full maturity.
Pays Nantes (Muscadet) and the Centre Loire (Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé) fared the best with whites having slightly lower alcohol levels than previous years. Anjou and Touraine were impacted by mildew and acid rot that required lots of spraying towards the end of the season. The resulting mix of damaged and healthy grapes demanded careful and rigorous fruit selection in the vineyard and cellar.
2022
This is an excellent, cellar-worthy vintage. In 2022, the region largely avoided the weather-related setbacks of recent years with limited frost damage. July was hot, which kept disease pressure away with some rainfall in late August and early September. Whites are citrusy and floral while reds are plump and ripe with fine-grained tannins.
2021
2021 is a fresh, cool weather vintage. A warm spring led to early bud break that was later impacted by severe frosts. A wet summer, hail and below-average temperatures led to mildew, which reduced volume and lowered yields across the region. Whites are bright with delicate aromas, while reds are red-fruit tilted with silky tannins.
You don’t have to be a wine geek to appreciate wines from the Loire; there is something for everyone.
Reggie Solomon, Wine Enthusiast Writer at Large
Trend Report
These are the Loire Valley trends to have on your radar.
A Rise in Sustainability
Wine drinkers are increasingly searching for bottles that are sustainably-produced, and the Loire is well-positioned to meet this trend head on. In 2019, the Loire set an ambitious goal of achieving 100% organic agriculture or environmental certification by 2030. The region has quickly had impressive results: already 85% of vineyards have been certified.
Terroir-Driven Wines Take Over
In the past, many producers in the Loire would combine grapes from multiple parcels. These days, more are gravitating toward more terroir-expressive wines. If you’ve ever had a Chenin Blanc grown on silex (flint) versus one grown on limestone, you’ve likely experienced how different the expressions can be. Parcel selection, which is common in regions like Burgundy, is gaining more momentum in the Loire as producers get to know their land.
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Futurecast
While many grape-growing regions around the globe are struggling to preserve acidity, the Loire remains a dependable source of balanced wines that retain the natural acidity that many drinkers crave today. From dry whites to bubbles, expect to see more of these affordable, food friendly wines on store shelves and restaurant by-the-glass lists in the future.
More Whites, Fewer Rosés and Reds
The global increase in white wine production and decrease in red wine production is also reflected in the Loire as wine drinkers consume less rosé and red. In 2024, exports of red and rosé fell by 5% in the Loire, and this trend is likely to continue. The bright, fresh, low-alcohol wine that people are seeking out more today have long been the mainstay-style of the region. So, expect to see even more Loire Valley white wines lining store shelves going forward.
More Sparkling Wine
At 12% abv, Loire Valley sparkling wine is a shoo-in for the low-alcohol style many wine lovers are currently seeking. It’s an open secret that the French have long substituted budget-friendly Crémant de Loire as a traditional-method-made alternative to Champagne. The rest of the world is finally taking notice too. In 2024, the export of Loire sparkling wine grew by 12%, signaling strong demand.
What to Drink Right Now
There is never a shortage of riveting options to choose from when it comes to the Loire, but the appellations and wines highlighted below are especially worthy of your attention. I’ve specially selected these bottles to lead you down the Loire rabbit hole.
Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
France’s westernmost winegrowing region, Muscadet sits on the Atlantic Ocean. Its maritime climate produces dry, fresh, light-bodied wines with minerality mostly made from its star grape Melon Blanc. (It’s also affectionately received a Spice Girl-evocative moniker “Melon B.”)
Located within the Pays Nantais region, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine is the most productive and well-known Muscadet sub-appellation whose name references the Sèvre and Maine rivers that run through it.
Though dismissed by many wine pros for years, the quality of these wines has gone up substantially over the last decade due to a decrease in yields.
These 12% abv wines are an ever reliable food pairing partner. Muscadet has always been a classic wine to enjoy with shellfish, oysters, goat cheese and seafood. But it’s time to move beyond this limiting paradigm. Its floral and citrusy character, also pairs wonderfully with tacos, risotto, Pad Thai, fried foods, chicken and Thanksgiving dinner. Expand your Muscadet-pairing horizons with these bottles.
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
Image Courtesy of KL Wines
Domaine Delaunay 2019 Goulaine Melon de Bourgogne (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine)
94 Points
This wine is a caress in a glass. Golden in hue, the wine has a smile-inducing nose of warm orchard fruit including yellow apple and sun-warmed pear followed by dried honeysuckle petals. The palate is rich and creamy with hints of ginger and toasted slivered almonds. The beautiful wine demands reflection. Editor’s Choice.—Reggie Solomon
$20 at K&L Wines
Image Courtesy of Flatiron Wines
Domaine Michel Brégeon 2022 Sur Lie Melon (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine)
94 Points
Introduce a friend to Muscadet with this grown-up wine that knows its value. It opens with subtle notes of vanilla baking spice, caramel, golden apple and dried apricot. Creamy in texture, the Muscadet exudes charm and grace with a balanced palate that combines nervy acidity and fresh brioche. — R.S.
$23 at Flatiron Wines & Spirits
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Domaines Landron 2018 Le Fief Du Breil Melon (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine)
95 Points
This is a beautiful, structured Muscadet. The perfumed bottling offers layers of fruit beginning with orange zest, marmalade and roasted golden apple, and continuing with peach and apricot scone topped with lemon curd. Creaminess on the palate is balanced by mineral-driven acidity that lifts the long finish. Editor’s Choice.—R.S.
$39 at Wine.com
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Savennières
Even though it’s a relatively small region within the Loire Valley with only 150 hectares in production, Savennières is home to one of the best expressions of Chenin Blanc that you’ll find on the planet. The appellation produces dry, concentrated full-bodied wines with smoky minerality that improve with age. These terroir-expressive wines show a side of Chenin Blanc that you may not have experienced before. So, it’s time to familiarize yourself with these high quality bottlings. Given the limited production volume, you’ll want to grab these gems while you can.
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
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Château Soucherie 2021 Clos des Perrières Chenin Blanc (Savennières)
93 Points
Lovely aromas of baked apple and vanilla baking spice, followed by honey and caramel, waft from the glass. Contrasting the nose are surprising flavors of tart, lemon-spritzed Granny Smith apple that fill the palate with an underlayer of subtle creamy persistence. This wine pairs well with seafood and all the buttery dishes you want to throw at it. —R.S.
$55 at RWM Selections
Image Courtesy of Saratogawine.com
Domaine des Baumard 2018 Clos du Papillon Chenin Blanc (Savennières)
95 Points
Slowly developing, this wine from the butterfly (papillon) shaped vineyard is impressive. Its mineral character and its tight acidity are harbingers of long-term aging. The white fruits and tight texture will soften over time. Drink this fine wine from 2025. Cellar Selection. — Roger Voss
$61 at Saratoga Wine
Image Courtesy of Perrines Wine
Famille Joly 2022 Clos de la Coulée de Serrant Chenin Blanc (Savennières)
97 Points
Pineapple, papaya, caramel, orange marmalade and dried apricot open on the nose along with hints of ginger and almond. The biodynamically-farmed wine is rich and fulsome with dried-fruit flavors suggested on the nose along with peach stone fruit and orange zest. Savennières is a passion that Famille Joly captures in a bottle. Editor’s Choice. — R.S.
$170 at Perrine’s Wine Shop
Chinon
Chinon is the largest red wine appellation in the Loire Valley. It is most closely associated with Cabernet Franc, but it also boasts small plantings of Chenin Blanc, both of which fall under Chinon AOC. Production is 86% red, 9% rosé and 5% white.
Chinon produces red and white wines that are fresh and fruity when grown on sandy, gravely soils or full-bodied and powerful when grown on tuffeau limestone soils. The wide range of available styles means there’s a Chinon suited to every individual taste.
Chinon produces some of the most age-worthy red wines in the Loire Valley and retains freshness while offering concentrated aromas of black plum, pencil shavings and freshly-tilled earth. Like most wines from the region, these moderate alcohol bottlings (around 13.5% abv) are a versatile food-pairing partner, which is one of the reasons why Chinon is a French by-the-glass bistro favorite. It pairs well with grilled meats, charcuterie, poultry, steak, vegetables and a host of other dishes.
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
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Paul Buisse 2023 Cabernet Franc Cabernet Franc (Chinon)
91 Points
This wine draws you into it if you give it enough time in your glass. Deep ruby in color, the wine has a restrained nose of red cherry, black plum, red raspberry and pomegranate. The palate begins with roundness and resolves in concentration with well-integrated tannins that persist to the end of the taste. Best Buy.— R.S.
$15 at Buy Wines Online
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Le Moulin Chapître 2023 Cabernet Franc (Chinon)
92 Points
This wine is a great expression of what Chinon has to offer as a region. Aromas of juicy black plum play footsie with rhubarb in front of an audience of dried apricot and white strawberry. The mineral-driven palate also brings along pencil shavings and Darjeeling tea which adds texture and depth. Best Buy. — R.S.
This rare white Chinon is a chameleon in a glass. The perfumed wine opens with a candied nose of honeycomb, dried apple slice, bruised orange peel, banana, honeydew melon and white-nectarine skin. The wine is surprisingly bone-dry on the palate with an underbelly of tart-green fruit that defies the nose while being supported by a robust core of acidity. A must try. Editor’s Choice. —R.S.
$32 at Solano Cellars
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Béatrice & Pascal Lambert 2022 Les Terrasses Cabernet Franc (Chinon)
92 Points
Purple in color, this biodynamically produced wine has a nose of dried grape stalk, fennel pollen, raspberry, black cherry and Darjeeling tea. Traces of salinity impart minerality and support just-ripened black plum framed by slightly grippy tannins that hug the black fruit. —R.S.
$22 at Bottle Rocket
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Domaine Dozon 2021 Clos du Saut aI Loup Cabernet Franc (Chinon)
91 Points
Raspberry, cranberry and dried red cherry partner on the subdued nose. The palate is chalky, with moments of flintiness that hint at unfurled rosebud framed by firm tannins. This wine would pair especially well with herb- and umami-forward dishes. Drink now through 2032. —R.S.
$15 at Bottle Barn
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Couly-Dutheil 2018 Baronnie Madeleine Cabernet Franc (Chinon)
95 Points
This is a confident, characterful Chinon. Perfumed aromas of Darjeeling tea, dried crushed violet blossom, white mushroom, sawdust and black plum greet you on the nose. Slightly grippy tannins frame the purple fruit that remains vibrant through the end of the taste. Editor’s Choice. —R.S.
$25 at K&L Wines
Sancerre
You’re already familiar with Sancerre, which produces elegant white wines with citrus, hints of grassiness and plenty of finesse. Not only popular because it’s easy to pronounce, Sancerre boasts an attractive and distinct minerality due to the limestone soils on which it is grown, setting it miles apart from Sauvignon Blanc grown anywhere else in the world.
But did you know that Sancerre also produces red wine made from Pinot Noir? A small but surprising 10% of Sancerre AOC wine production is red Sancerre Rouge.
Climate change has benefited Sancerre Rouge greatly. Grapes that barely reached maturity decades ago now ripen dependably. These wines are starting to give red Burgundy a run for its money and are comparable to the Burgundy wines of 30 years ago, before climate change increased ripeness and alcohol levels.
Sancerre Rouge manages to retain natural acidity, producing balanced wines with aromas of dried cherry, orange peel, graphite and red blossom. Though this small slice of the Loire Valley has traditionally been overlooked, it is now ready to be taken seriously.
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
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Les Glories 2023 Sauvignon Blanc (Sancerre)
90 Points
This Sancerre shows you it is a Loire Sauvignon Blanc. The wine opens with Anjou pear, Fuji apple, chamomile and starfruit aromas. Steely in texture, crushed stone and orchard fruit give way to a stream of tart acidity that refreshes the palate with hints of dried field grass. —R.S.
$42 at Wine.com
Image Courtesy of Plummarket
Le Garenne 2023 Sauvignon Blanc (Sancerre)
91 Points
This mineral-driven Sancerre offers layers of stone fruit and candied green apple on the nose alongside dried white blossom. Wet stone and chalk dust fill the lemon-spritzed midpalate. Soft in texture with a balanced acidity, the wine can be enjoyed by itself or paired with seafood, a cheese plate and spicy dishes. — R.S.
$30 at Plum Market
Image Courtesy of Wine Anthology
Maison de Madeleine 2023 Sancerre Caillottes Sauvignon Blanc (Sancerre)
94 Points
This gorgeous Sancerre is a chameleon in a glass whose character flips on the palate while remaining entirely delicious. Intense golden-fruit aromas of baked yellow apple and ripe Anjou pear surrender to brioche, bread dough, toast, bruised honeysuckle blossom and orange zest on the nose. The palate is creamy and delicious with yeasty elements bending a knee to ripe orchard fruit that asserts its hegemony while acknowledging its depth-inducing sidekick. —R.S.
$33 at The Wine Rack
Image Courtesy of Mr. D Wine Merchant
Domaine Roc de l’Abbaye 2022 Rouge Pinot Noir (Sancerre)
90 Points
Dried herbs and blackberry open the nose of this savory wine that also dips its toe in a pool of black raspberry, black olive and strawberry stem. Graphite notes lead on the attack followed by cranberry and red cherry skin that contribute to a distinct tartness on the finish. Pair will potato soups, latkes and tofu stir fries. —R.S.
$43 at Mr. D Wine Merchants
Image Courtesy of Saratoga Wine Exchange
Henri Bourgeois 2019 La Bourgeoise Pinot Noir (Sancerre)
90 Points
This Sancerre provides a glimpse into the region’s Pinot Noir promise. This wine has an aromatic nose of ripe red cherry, earth, red raspberry, white blossom and strawberry. The wine is supple in texture with some crushed stone on the midpalate that harmonizes with red fruit. —R.S.
$48 at Solano Cellars
Image Courtesy of Vine and Cellar Reserve
J. de Villebois 2022 Pinot Noir (Sancerre)
91 Points
This is a Sancerre for Pinot Noir lovers. The wine opens with bruised red cherry and fresh red raspberry on the nose. The palate is lively with a vibrant acid streak, crushed stones and strawberry that play well together on the palate. —R.S.
$33 at Vine & Cellar Reserve
Image Courtesy of Wine-Searcher
Steve Millet 2022 Pinot Noir (Sancerre)
91 Points
Muddled black cherry and dried cranberry aromas sit next to sliced strawberry and mushroom on the nose. Medium in body, the wine has an innate concentration that borders on effervescent. Within this framework, the shy Pinot Noir still shines without touting its own horn. —R.S.
$26 at Finding.Wine
Image Courtesy of KL Wines
Aurore Dezat & David Girard 2022 Pinot Noir (Sancerre)
93 Points
This Sancerre wants you to know there are other regions In France producing Pinot Noir that deserve your attention. Rich, bruised black cherry opens on the nose along with black raspberry, hibiscus and dried cranberry. Assertive black fruit is more subdued on the palate while offering complexity and depth that leads into a finish that never seems to end. Editor’s Choice. —R.S.
$35 at K&L Wines
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