Riesling vs. Chenin Blanc: the Acid Hound Quest for the Best Aromatic White
For a certain kind of wine geek, few grape matchups are as compelling as Riesling vs. Chenin Blanc. It’s like picking between John Coltrane on the saxophone and Jimi Hendrix on guitar—legends, but with completely different rhythms and soul.
Both shapeshift from bone-dry to lusciously sweet, never losing their keen-edged acidity.
They thrive in some of the world’s finest terroirs, yielding wines that speak fluently of their origins.
Growers love them for their resilience; sommeliers for their range. Some admire their sturdiness in the vineyard, others their versatility at the table, another cohort adores their ability to evolve over time.
“There’s no question that both can age spectacularly well, if that’s what the wine was designed to do,” says Jesse Becker, Master Sommelier and ambassador for the German wine association VDP. “Most Riesling and Chenin are designed for immediate enjoyment, but drinking Trimbach’s Clos Ste. Hune or Huet’s Clos du Bourg, too young, is a travesty.”
But make no mistake: despite the commonalities and widespread fandom, these are two distinct beasts. “Chenin may be a more textural wine, while Riesling is sleeker and more linear,” says Becker.
Riesling crackles with energy, a live wire of citrus and stone. Chenin, on the other hand, is all about depth. It is layered, revealing more with each sip.
In the battle of precision versus complexity, there’s no easy victor—but let’s take a closer look and let the pros debate.
The Grapes: Vibrant Petrol vs. Textured Socks
“There are some similarities between Riesling and Chenin, particularly in their diversity of expression and the ability to handle botrytis and residual sugar,” says Lepeltier. “They both have a pretty strong signature—they are what I call ‘semi-aromatic’ grapes, with variation of aromas and structure depending on geology, climate and vinification yet with some key components.”
Chenin has more phenolics—the natural chemical compounds responsible for various characteristics—than Riesling, says Pascaline Lepeltier, the fourth-best sommelier in the world and one of the foremost experts on Chenin, “thus a broader spectrum of tannic and bitter sensation.”
It is more of a chameleon. It’s a crowd-pleaser, but never predictable. One bottle can be crisp and chiseled, while the next is waxy and opulent.
“One of my favorite ways to blind taste Chenin is to look for a wooly, lanolin flavor that reminds me of socks (not in a bad way!),” says Ian Krupp, Michelin award-winning sommelier and wine director at Anajak Thai who pours both at the Sherman Oaks, California, restaurant.
Both grapes have the potential to create a wide range of styles: dry (trocken/sec), off-dry (kabinett/demi-sec), sweet (auslese/moelleux) and sparkling wines like Sekt and Vouvray.
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Riesling, however, demands attention with its sharp, electrifying acidity, cutting through the air like a switchblade and flashing bright like a neon sign. “There’s also the famous tasting note of petrol in Riesling and the typical heightened aromatic intensity,” adds Krupp.
Because of Riesling’s global reach and ability to thrive in a diverse array of soils, its expressions are incredibly varied. However, these wines boast a common throughline of brightness—and gasoline—that make it easily identifiable from other grapes.
German Rieslings are known for their piercing acidity and long aging potential, while Alsace delivers bold, spice-laced versions. Austria favors structure and dry precision, and Australia brings lime zest and that signature petrol note. Even New York’s Finger Lakes are producing Rieslings with cool-climate snap. Wherever it grows, though, Riesling remains bright, sharp and unrelenting.
The Regions: Cold and Germanic vs. Moderate and Maritime
While Riesling grows around the world, Germany is its spiritual home. It dominates the steep, slate-covered vineyards of the Mosel, Rheingau and Nahe. It has also long flourished in volcanic and limestone soils in Alsace and other continental climates.
The differences in flavor profile are easy to tell apart. “Riesling on slate is a different expression than Riesling on volcanic or sandstone,” says Becker. “You can find all these soils within Germany’s Nahe region alone, and it’s fascinating and easy to taste the difference when you have them side-by-side.”
Chenin, too, is grown in a range of soil types across the world. But its most famous expressions hail from the Loire Valley and South Africa.
In the Loire, it thrives in Vouvray, Anjou and Savennières, where limestone (tuffeau) and schist soils shape its character. Depending on the soil, it ranges from elegant and broad to firm and structured, with flinty minerality and sometimes a woolly texture.
In South Africa, where it’s known as “Steen,” Chenin Blanc has become a powerhouse. Many winemakers are experimenting with skin contact, amphora aging and old vine bottlings that rival the Loire in complexity.
“South African Chenin is typically less aromatic and more acid-driven compared to the Loire, due to the different climatic conditions, timing of harvest to preserve acidity,” says Lepeltier. “The longer growing season in the Loire allows for a more complex aromatic development.”
The Verdict: the Teams Square off
For acid hounds, this choice comes back to what the mood and situation calls for. Are you hankering for the precision, mastery and raw energy of Hendrix or the smooth versatility of Coltrane?
Riesling is the epitome of precision, delivering crystalline wines that shimmer with energy. Chenin Blanc offers incredible adaptability, transforming into a range of styles while always maintaining its signature acidity and texture.
For Lepeliter, when it comes to versatility, food-pairing, ageability and overall enjoyment, Chenin takes the crown. She believes that its flexibility is the key: “It offers a range from dry to moelleux [sweet], sparkling and flor-aged styles, along with more powerful, oak-aged, phenolic whites that can replace red wines, especially with certain proteins.”
And in terms of the changing climate, she believes Chenin—which has proven to thrive in warm climates like South Africa and California—may have an advantage, as techniques like oxidation and skin maceration help preserve freshness.
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But, there are pros who stand firmly in the other camp. “Pascaline is going to hate me now, but I think Riesling takes the crown,” says Becker. “Most modern Riesling styles are dry and fresh in taste and deliver a range of flavor and drinkability, and Riesling tends to come from cooler climates and is lower in alcohol—it’s the perfect wine for now!”
He adds that despite its thin skins that make it more vulnerable to environmental threats, Reisling has also been adapting well in a world of shifting climates. “Germany used to battle bad vintages, but now it feels like every year is better than the last,” Becker says.
Krupp has a more balanced opinion. “The general consensus among sommeliers I’ve met is that Riesling takes the crown, but I think if we broaden our horizons, Chenin belongs in the same conversation,” he says. “Our first house white at Anajak Thai was a Napa Chenin Blanc from Matthiasson. Now, our newest house white is a Riesling from Hermann Ludes in the Mosel.”
At the end of the day, both grapes bring immense pleasure, ageability and adaptability. Whether it’s the razor-sharp acidity of a dry Riesling, the lush depth of a Loire Chenin or the honeyed complexity of a late-harvest bottle, these wines show that the best rivalries are about celebrating the greatness of both.
Sometimes you’re in the mood for Coltrane’s sax, and other times for Hendrix’s guitar.
More Greatest Grape Coverage
- In the first installment of the greatest grape debate, we dig into Pinot Noir vs. Cabernet Sauvignon.
- And then we explore Chardonnay vs. Sauvignon Blanc.
- There’s also Barolo vs. Brunello: which Italian wine reigns supreme?
- Clean and consistent or frisky and feral: Sparkling Wine vs. Pét Nat.
- Lastly, there’s France’s ultimate duel: Burgundy vs. Bordeaux.
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