The Best Lodi Wineries to Visit Right Now
Long a workhorse of California wine grape growing, Lodi is elevating quality like never before, making right now the best time ever to visit this low-lying region between the bustling Bay Area and the glorious Sierra Nevada.
The sprawling region, which was named as an appellation in 1984 and encompasses about 100,000 acres of vineyard, occupies most of the rich, loamy landscape between the large inland port city of Stockton and state capital of Sacramento.
Home to century-old vines and more than 120 (!) grape varieties, there’s a flavor for every palate in Lodi, whether that’s a brisk Bourbelenc, a spicy Zwiegelt, a classic Cabernet Sauvignon or an old-vine Zinfandel.
With nearly 70 tasting rooms all spread within about a half-hour drive of each other, there’s an experience for every preference, from family-friendly, picnic-perfect estates near the Delta on the southwest edge to elevated tasting tours on properties that cling to the foothills on the northeast.
For those seeking to dive deeper into what makes Lodi special, make sure to pay attention to the seven sub-appellations that were carved out of the original Lodi AVA in 2014: Alta Mesa, Borden Ranch, Clements Hills, Cosumnes River, Jahant, Mokelumne River and Sloughhouse. Aside from their geographic locations, the differing terroirs are rooted in each appellation’s distinct soil makeup, which give the resulting wines a bit more character.
To best navigate the landscape, I asked a handful of experts who live and/or work regularly in Lodi for their advice on which tasting rooms to visit right now and why. Playing particularly helpful in this regard were legendary Hawaiian sommelier Randy Caparoso, who literally wrote the book on the region in Lodi!: The Definitive Guide and History of America’s Largest Winegrowing Region; my Wine Enthusiast colleague Tonya Pitts, who covers Lodi for the magazine; chef-turned-viticulturist Jake Des Voignes and writer Mike Dunne, the longtime wine columnist for the Sacramento Bee. We also gathered a few restaurant and hotel recommendations to help plot your Lodi expedition.
Enjoy!
Where to Taste Wine in Lodi
Established a quarter-century ago by the Lodi Winegrape Commission, which coalesced in 1991 as the region’s umbrella organization, the Lodi Wine Visitor Center pairs a demonstration vineyard with a regularly rotating flight of wines.
“It’s manned by a very savvy staff who really know their stuff,” says Caparoso. Most of these are from producers that don’t have their own tasting rooms, including both Lodi-based operations like Perlegos Family and JSL as well as brands that source from Lodi, such as Sandlands and Haarmeyer.
“In my opinion, some of the most exciting wines being made in Lodi or from Lodi fruit are from small wineries that don’t have their own tasting rooms,” says Jake Des Voignes, a longtime chef and former food & beverage director at Wine & Roses Hotel, who is now focused on his own project at Hartwick Vineyard and Fernow Ranch. “The lineup ranges from classically made Zinfandels to hipster natural wines made from some of the more esoteric grapes grown in the area.”
Mokelumne River AVA
Acquiesce Vineyards owners Susan and Rodney Tipton and winemaker Christina Lopez are leading the way for regenerative farming and Rhône grape varietals in Lodi.
“This female-led winery is uniquely known for its love of white Rhône varietals made in small batches,” says Tonya Pitts, who, in addition to her WE role, has been the wine director at One Market Restaurant in San Francisco since 2008. “Reservations are recommended as you will want to get a guided tour of the lovingly cared for vines and scrumptious food and wine pairing curated especially for the wines being offered.”
With roots stretching back to 1868, it’s no wonder that Jessie’s Grove is a favorite for longtime locals as well as those with a love for the past. Classic wines like Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Carignan get top billing, enjoyed either inside the refurbished barn or at one of the many cabanas spread across the property.
“It’s really been old-school Lodi, in both reception and wine style,” says Dunne, who appreciates the rustic, casual vibe. “I’ve always enjoyed wandering around the grounds, drifting into and about the old historic buildings and farm implements on the spread.”
But there’s a lot of new energy on the property to engage the whole community as well, with a strong lineup of live music and seasonal parties throughout the calendar year.
Old Vine Zinfandel is the name of the game at Klinker Brick, where the sixth generation of the Felten family is now starting to oversee operations of the winery. But that’s not the only reason to visit, as the small-batch selections by Belize-born winemaker Joseph Smith are exciting, too. Make a reservation (highly encouraged) to sip flights (starting at $10 per person) to the sound of a fountain in the courtyard or overlooking Mount Diablo on the patio.
”Be on the lookout for sparkling Albarino grown in the sandy soils of their sites and Echoes Native Zinfandel, a completely crushable chilled red which should be on your table year-round,” says Pitts, who suggests bringing your own food pairing to best enjoy the property. “This is totally old school, warm and comfortable hospitality, so feel free to bring in locally discovered treats.”
With experience both working for Robert Mondavi Winery, David Lucas, who founded Lucas Winery in 1978, and his wife, Heather Pyle-Lucas, bring tremendous insight to their ZinStar Vineyard, which was originally planted in the 1930s. They also source Chardonnay from the surrounding properties.
“They are dedicated to making old world-style Chardonnay and Zinfandel that age well,” said Des Voignes, who enjoys the tasting room inside of a refurbished barn. “Stepping into the barrel room feels like you have been transported out of Lodi into a winery in France.”
Guided tastings start at $20 per person (for parties of up to six) and include an etched wine glass for each guest to take home. Kids and leashed dogs are welcome to join.
Likely the Lodi winery best known to the greater world, Michael David was founded in 1984 by fifth-generation growers and brothers Michael and David Phillips. By the early 2000s, one of their creatively branded labels–7 Deadly Zins–was the most popular Zinfandel in the country, leading to its sale in 2018.
That’s allowed them to focus on such beloved bottlings as Freakshow (including Petit Petit), Inkblot and Misfits & Mavens. Visitors can sample them either at the high-ceilinged, stone-wrapped tasting bar inside or next to their outdoor water features. There’s also a cafe, bistro and bakery on site (see “Where to Eat” below).
Clements Hills AVA
Located in the Clements Hills appellation, Markus and Liz Bokisch’s 20-acre, organically grown vineyard is focused on Spanish varieties, from three traditional Cava grapes to reserva-style Tempranillo. They pair each wine tasting with Catalonian dishes that Liz helps to develop. “You will feel as though you have been dropped in Spain for the day,” says Pitts.
Des Voignes often visits with his family. “In good weather the tasting experience takes place on their expansive lawn overlooking the vineyards with paths out under the large native oaks,” he says. “My wife and I often enjoy a glass or two of crisp Albarino or rose while our kids explore the vineyard paths and run under the trees.”
Tastings start at $15 per person; large group packages are available. Also, keep an eye out for regularly scheduled events such as taco and Tempranillo pairings and live music.
Alta Mesa AVA
About 20 minutes north of Lodi in the Sacramento suburb of Elk Grove is Christopher Cellars, where Chris and Candice Mora provide very personal service to guests, often working in the tasting room themselves. Like many Lodi producers, they craft a wide range of wines, from sparkling Barbera and chillable Cinsault to bold red blends.
“They use all Lodi fruit to make the wines and, as a guest, you can have the experience of having the person that made the wine pour it for you as well,” says Des Voignes, who noted that they stay open late with music and food trucks on Fridays.
Jahant AVA
Though the family history goes back to the 1870s and the purchase of their first vineyard in 1916, LangeTwins is the face of modern Lodi today. They offer customized or set flights in their contemporary tasting room and, every Saturday, host a “progressive” tasting and tour through the winery.
“The next generation at LangeTwins and in Lodi are vested in preserving the land and planting unique grape vine discoveries into the vineyard all while creating opportunities for the younger generation to uncover the riches and opportunity of continuing to live in a farming community,” says Pitts. “Chances are someone from the family will be there in the tasting room to greet and guide you.”
In 1985, right after third-generation farmer Rodney Schatz graduated from college and married his wife, Gayle, they bought 40-acres of old vine Zinfandel. After 20 years of focus on growing and selling grapes, they launched their own brand in 2005.
“The operation is family run, hugely successful, inventive and bold,” says Dunne, who appreciates the self-serving stations powered by pre-loaded credit cards around the tasting room, where comfortable chairs and couches ensure a relaxing time. Guests can also reserve a spot amongst the olive trees on the idyllic outdoor patio.
Last time he visited, Dunne tried 14 different wines, but knows that they offer up to two dozen at a time. “The staff is pleasant, informed and relaxed, but the wine-station approach lets visitors draw their own conclusions about wines,”he adds.
Reservations are recommended.
Seeking ecological balance is top of mind at Prie Winery, where John and Lisa Gash have been elevating sustainable techniques since 2012. Their estate practices no-till farming, incorporates chickens into the vines and relies on solar energy to produce wines.
“Prie Winery is a small, charming place specializing in natural-style wines, including some super-adventurous stuff,” says Caparoso, calling out bottlings of such grapes as Prieto Picudo, Counoise and Marzemino. Prie’s 2017 Mencia, they say, was the first release of that variety in California.
The tasting room extends from the wood-paneled bar to the umbrella-shaded tables outside, all within view of the vines.
Tim and Barbara Spencer founded St. Amant in 1979 to explore the potential for varieties from Portugal, Spain and Italy while pursuing California Zinfandel as well. When his father passed nearly 20 years ago, Stuart Spencer took the winemaking reins, and continues to uphold the winery’s quality.
“St. Amant wines are actually among the absolute best in Lodi,” says Caparoso, though he says to prepare for a more bare-bones setting, as it sits in an old industrial building. Even the winery’s own website proclaims, “We don’t have picnic grounds, bocce ball courts or other ‘wine country’ amenities, we just have good wine. We’ve been told our winery is hard to find, but we kind of like it that way because it tends to keep the troublemakers away.”
Caparoso agrees. “Wine geeks like me are less impressed by ‘fancy’ tasting rooms than actual wines, so this is always more than worth a visit,” he says.
Where to Eat
Wine country cuisine gets the top-shelf treatment at the Towne House Restaurant, which is located inside the Wine & Roses Hotel and serves from 9 a.m. until 10 p.m. in the lounge. Also on the property is the Towne Corner Cafe & Market for more casual and, if needed, on-the-go dishes.
The most popular spot in town is Guantonio’s Wood Fired, which found a permanent home in an old abandoned gas station in 2020 after a decade of catering. “They specialize in farm-to-table pizza and salads, served with strictly artisanal, handcrafted, natural style wines by independent producers,” says Caparoso.
Also on the Italian front is Pietro’s Trattoria, which has been run by the Murdaca family since 1985. The restaurant recently outgrew its original location, and plans to open a new spot in early 2025.
Lodi’s brand new farm-to-fork hotspot is The Exchange 1874, which showcases the Central Valley’s agricultural heritage on the menu. With exposed brick walls and sleek decor, it’s decidedly more urban than the town’s typical rural image.
Caparoso’s personal favorites include small eateries such as Zin Bistro and M Sushi Bistro. “They have super-innovative Asian cooking and super-fresh sushi,” he says.
But he notes that no visit to Lodi is complete without a stop at Lockeford Meats and Sausage, which produces dozens of hand-made sausages.
“Remember, Lodi was ‘civilized’ by Germans in the late 1890s and early 1900s, so sausage-making is a fine art in the region,” says Caparoso, of the small-but-mighty butcher’s shop. “If you visit, the long lines forming around the corner will tell you all you need to know about what a landmark this place is.”
For breakfast, wine visitors tend to flock to Michael David Winery’s Farm Cafe. At old-school diner Richmaid Restaurant—first opened as a creamery in 1938—servers still call customers “honey” and “sweetheart.”
And those seeking a beverage other than wine would be wise to explore the selections at the Hidden Tea Room, where afternoon loose-leaf pours are accompanied by scones, salads and more in the florally fantastic dining room or gardenesque patio.
Where to Stay
Most of the hotel options in Lodi are the standard chains that you’ll find around the country: Holiday Inn, Fairfield Inn, Hampton Inn and a brand new Tru by Hilton, which is set to open in December. They’re reliably convenient, clean and close to the highway, about a 10-minute drive from downtown.
The hands-down recommendation from every expert is the Wine & Roses Hotel. “It’s super-nice, lush, luxurious, and historical,” says Caparoso of the property, which includes a spa, multiple dining concepts (see “Where to Eat”) and hosts numerous classes and events around the calendar.
But there are a number of smaller spots with character as well. Located right in downtown Lodi, The Poppy Sister Inn is a bed & breakfast housed in a 1907 Victorian. Just a few blocks away is the Bella Vino Bed & Breakfast, where guests rave about the morning meals. And if staying in rooms where a horror movie was recently filmed, try the Lodi Hill House, whose starring role in the film Unholy Song premiered this October.
And then there’s the Airbnb and VRBO options, which abound in Lodi. Some hotel-like properties, such as the Grape Escape Inn & Suites, do the bulk of their booking through such sites.
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Published: October 28, 2024