The Incredible Quality of Villamagna D.O.C.

Wine lovers pride themselves on having an eye for the rare and an appreciation for things others don’t see. But they can sometimes miss the forest for the trees, especially when it comes to unexplored regions. That said, no one can really be accused of myopia for failing to discern the Villamagna D.O.C. from amidst the vast universe of Italian wine producing areas.

This tiny star is literally tiny—the entire controlled designation comprises just 85 hectares of vineyards—and representationally tiny, with only seven producers making two wines: Villamagna D.O.C. and Villamagna D.O.C. Riserva. It also only received legal recognition in 2011, making it a relatively new light in the sky.

However, the incredible quality to be found here is not new. This sliver of territory, sandwiched between the mountains and the sea in the central-eastern Italian region of Abruzzo, was always well-positioned to make exceptional wine. And when the few producers here, who have a long winemaking history, get together and get serious? They’re quickly able to convert the excellence of their raw materials into wines that radically out-perform expectations.

Ushering in a new era of strict parameters with lofty goals is hard enough to do at an individual level, but for cantine sociali—a.k.a. wine cooperatives—that comprise dozens of grape growers that produce at large scale? It’s nigh impossible, and that’s where this little luminary really manages to raise eyebrows.

A Beacon of Quality

Other areas of Abruzzo have struggled with the region’s past as a juice-machine for the rest of the country, which historically has led to a siloing of sophisticated offerings and an indifference to what less quality-oriented production can do to the perception of a territory’s broader identity. But Villamagna has taken the challenge head on.

The D.O.C. is home to not one, but two cantine sociali. Both have managed to instill in their members an understanding of the importance of extreme care for fruit and ultra-hygienic practices, plus a forward-looking philosophy.

At Piandimare, despite needing to wrangle 70 members, the philosophy of organic is becoming the rule rather than the exception. New cement aging vessels are being used to promote fresh, clean, buoyant versions of indigenous stalwarts like Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Pecorino. Better yet, it continues to place a strong focus on low vineyard intervention and regenerative agriculture, keeping a small footprint even as it delivers large amounts of superb wine.

If the wine wasn’t already reason enough to give Villamagna a closer look, perhaps the hospitality offerings can do that work instead. In 2024, Katia Masci of Valle Martello winery opened a guest house, offering comfortable beds surrounded by seemingly boundless rows of vineyards to anyone who wants to luxuriate in this magical place a little longer. And next year, Federico de Cerchio will inaugurate a tasting room and boutique hotel for his Torre Zambra property, where guests can sip, swim and stand on top of a newly restored Renaissance-era tower to look down at Villamagna in all its tiny glory.

Abruzzo has already shown itself to be one of—if not the—most exciting places for Italian wine. After all, it was our Wine Star Region of the Year back in 2022. Now, Villamagna is poised to receive some long overdue attention.

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Published: August 7, 2024