Courtesy of Tenuta Cafeggiolo, Mazzei, and Wine.com
Tuscany Is Still the Center of the Italian Wine Universe
Despite the rising popularity of wine regions like Alto Adige and Sicily, the central Italian home of the Renaissance still reigns supreme.
By Danielle Callegari Wine Enthusiast Writer at Large and reviewer of wines from Tuscany and Southern Italy.
The annoying thing about Tuscans is that they think they’re at the center of the Italian wine world. The even more annoying thing is that they’re kind of right.
While the northeast region of the Veneto makes more wine by volume, and the northwest corner of Italy, Piedmont, might take the crown for most coveted fine wines, Tuscany, the central Italian powerhouse that gave rise to the Renaissance, is the overall champion when you account for both quantity and quality—and it almost certainly boasts the greatest depth of history.
Indeed, wine has been the heart of Tuscan life since at least as far back as the Etruscans, the indigenous Iron Age civilization on the Italian peninsula that lent its impressive learning and its advanced understanding of infrastructure to the Romans. More than two thousand years of wine production has made experts of the people living in this magical place of undulating green and gold hills dotted with cypresses, washed by the Tyrrhenian sea to the west and lifted by the Apennine mountain chain to the east.
Today 58,000 hectares of the territory is planted to vine, producing 2.6 million hectoliters of wine a year, and the region is home to 11 of Italy’s 77 Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantitas (DOCGs) and 41 of its 332 current Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOCs).
Their most famous grape, the blood of Jove—a.k.a. Sangiovese— has been the cornerstone of that historic success. Generations of experience and deep roots have allowed winemakers to learn everything that there is to know about the grape. Thus they are able to brush its blemishes into beauty marks and give it the stage and lighting it deserves to be a star. This icon of a grape manages to fill any role required of it. It can transform from lithe and fresh and crunchy to rich, dense, and demanding, and everything in between. It stands confidently on its own but also knows how to coax chemistry out of any blend.
Pair with that the presence of a supporting cast of Tuscan regional grapes that includes everything from rare indigenous grapes like the Ansonica that grows on the island of Elba just off the Tuscan coast to the recognizable so-called “international varietals” that have actually been planted here for centuries, and you’ll find your only trouble with Tuscan wine is deciding how much of it you can drink.
Table of Contents
Weather Report
Trend Report
Futurecast
What to Drink Right Now
The Classics
The Blockbusters
The Underdogs
The Unexpected
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Weather Report
If ever there were a barometer for what’s happening in the world of wine with regard to weather, Tuscany is it. Once a classic Mediterranean climate, with mild, moderately wet winters and hot summers modulated by proximity to the sea, recent years have seen more volatility and more extremes of all kinds. Tropical rains on one side, drought on the other, new high and low temperatures across the terrain—this party has it all. Most producers are weathering the storm successfully so far, relying on their years of experience and the versatility of their expressions.
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Their most famous grape, the blood of Jove—a.k.a. Sangiovese— has been the cornerstone of that historic success.
Danielle Callegari, Wine Enthusiast Writer at Large
Trend Report
The weight of history can be a lot to bear sometimes, and it can even suffocate innovation. But Tuscans don’t shy away from experimentation: on the contrary, they’re always pushing perceived limits and testing new techniques. At the same time, they appreciate that decades of fine tuning has resulted in reliably excellent wines, and they are ensuring that fans keep getting more of what they love. That means producers are still delivering sophisticated, structured reds that can take years if not decades of age, but they’re also trying out new aging vessels, like clayver, fiberglass, or formerly popular cement, that lend a little edge to those reds. And, with the rise of white wine across the globe, some are finally giving some well-deserved attention to the white grapes that have just as much history and potential for greatness.
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Futurecast
The question in an esteemed Old World winemaking region is always: how do we respect tradition and hold onto the things that have made us great in the first place, while pushing ahead to be sure we keep delivering on quality and reaching new heights?
Like a great suit, Tuscan wine never goes out of style. Better yet, that suit looks just as good with Air Force Ones as it does with Oxfords or brogues. Even so, the region is on a trajectory to become more compelling in the next few years, as winemakers elevate classic expressions into unexpected experiences while taking risks with new projects—from single-vineyard, special labels of Brunello (a rarity in the not-too-distant past) to Champagne-method, long-lees aged sparkling Sangiovese.
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What to Drink Right Now
Brunello or Chianti Classico? Maremma or Valdarno di Sopra? Sparkling, white, rosé, red? It’s hard to go wrong with anything Tuscany right now. The unparalleled experience of winemakers here, applied to grapes with exceptional qualities on soils derived from prehistoric geological foundations, has met the recognition of the international market. This economic stability enables producers to pursue excellence while also engaging in experimentation.
So, dig around, explore! The long famous wines continue to show well, and the up-and-comers are nipping at their heels to be next.
The Classics
Chances are you know Brunello and Chianti: the primary historic expressions of Sangiovese. The former gained fame in the nineteenth century and the latter received recognition and legal designation even earlier—back in the early 1700s.
But don’t think that being steeped in history means these wines are backwards or conservative. From a Brunello made by one of the oldest families in the region that is now entirely women-owned and -operated to one inspired by an astronomy professor’s research, you’ll find bottles that are proudly anchored in the past, yet push boundaries in unexpected ways.
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
Courtesy of Wine.com
Sesti 2019 Sangiovese (Brunello di Montalcino)
97 Points
Edmond Halley became famous for his astronomical research, but he was equally interested in what was happening inside our planet, and proposed that our earth was hollow and filled with gases and light, like the Aurora Borealis. Sesti tastes just like this—something luminous and powerful, trapped deep inside the earth. —Danielle Callegari
$105 at Merchant of Wines
Courtesy of Binny’s
Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2019 Progetto Prime Donne Sangiovese (Brunello di Montalcino)
95 Points
The nose is savory yet fresh, with aromas of salt, earth, hot tar and mixed herbs, while undertones of cherries and blackberries provide a spark of tart fruit. That spark explodes on the palate, but a very salty, savory element persists, while polished yet powerful tannins and lively acid underscore just a hint of bitter orange. — D.C.
$110 at Binny’s
Courtesy of Wien Express
Castello di Monsanto 2019 Gran Selezione Vigna Il Poggio Sangiovese (Chianti Classico)
95 Points
Chianti Classico has worked intensely over the last decade to improve quality across the board, creating distinctions to help consumers understand the gorgeous nuances of their territory, and the Gran Selezione category has become perhaps the most exciting Sangiovese experience available now. Castello di Monsanto has been my point of reference for Chianti since before these changes, but the 2019 Gran Selezione from the Il Poggio vineyard is nothing short of a revelation. It marks a turning point. I can’t wait to drink more. —D.C.
$81 at Wine Express
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The Blockbusters
On the subject of pushing boundaries, the hills rising up from the coastline running north and south of the town of Bolgheri have played host to multiple wine revolutions. This is where the first Super Tuscan bottlings showed how breaking the region’s strict 100% Sangiovese rules—or ditching the grape all together in favor of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, or Cabernet Franc—could change the world’s perception of Tuscan wine as a whole.
While the rarefied space occupied by Masseto might be out of reach for most wine lovers (though worth the blow to the wallet if you’re feeling a lack of financial impulse control), there are many phenomenal producers here who continue to change the game. Whites and “entry-level” bottlings impress just as much as the big, estate reds lately.
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
Courtesy of Best of Wines
Le Macchiole 2023 Paleo White (Toscana)
96 Points
The nose shimmers with the irresistible smell of cool deep water next to hot stones on a sunny day, with citrus blossoms perfuming the air. The blossoms bear fruit on the palate with lemon, lime and orange notes, which are joined by more warm stones and a finish which is primarily nutty and salty, but also offers just a hint of creaminess for depth. —D.C.
$81 at Best of Wines
Courtesy of Eataly Vino
Podere Sapaio 2021 Volpolo Red (Bolgheri)
93 Points
A nose full of dark berries has savory undertones and a stony saltiness that keep things interesting. Berries carry over to the palate, while undertones shift sweeter and more citrusy, before a spicy nuttiness emerges on the finish. Balanced tannins and acidity provide warmth. — D.C.
$45 at Eataly Vino
Courtesy of Wine.com
Masseto 2021 Merlot (Toscana)
99 Points
Our entire adult lives are spent trying to reclaim the wonder of our childhood—the enchantment of Disney World, the legend of Santa Claus, the belief in miracles that is slowly eroded with age. Masseto is always a wine that brings back that magic, but Gaia allows you to get up out of your seat and watch her sleight of hand from a nose-length. I dare you to figure out how she does it, and I defy you not to gasp with delight at the reveal. Drink now or hold until you next feel your faith faltering. Cellar Selection. — D.C.
$950 at Wine.com
Like a great suit, Tuscan wine never goes out of style. Better yet, that suit looks just as good with Air Force Ones as it does with Oxfords or brogues.
Danielle Callegari, Wine Enthusiast Writer at Large
The Underdogs
With heavy hitters abounding, it’s objectively hard to stand out in Tuscany. Even areas that have been appreciated for the exceptional quality of their wine for centuries have managed to stay under the radar as a result.
The Valdarno di Sopra DOC, nestled right next to Chianti and cut through by the Arno river, is a great example. It has some total knockouts, just as Maremma, the area stretching out along the coast beneath Bolgheri, delivers top wines that don’t command top dollar—yet. And don’t sleep on Montecucco, a tiny DOC that brushes up against its famous sibling Brunello and is perfectly poised to come into its own.
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
Courtesy of Mazzei
Mazzei 2022 Belguardo V Vermentino (Maremma)
93 Points
On the nose, aromas of almond paste, citrus blossom, lemon peel, saltwater taffy and new sneakers create a tangy earthiness and a marine salinity that contrast with a rich, dense fruit core. Tension continues on the palate, between a stonier salinity and flavors of lemon curd, peaches and more almonds. The overall structure of citrus and subtle tannins only barely allows the characteristic oily texture of Vermentino to slide through. — D.C.
$38 at Mazzei
Courtesy of Piemont Express
Podere Il Carnasciale 2021 Ottantadue Sangiovese
94 Points
The thing that makes Sangiovese so exciting is how wildly versatile and unexpected it is. No matter how many expressions you taste there will still be one to surprise you, but it’s *no* surprise that the *best* surprise version of Sangiovese comes from Podere Il Carnasciale. Like no other Sangiovese you’ve tasted before, but certainly one you’ll hope sneaks up on you again. — D.C.
$26 at Piemont Express
Courtesy of Addy Bassin’s MacArthur Beverages
Otto Ettari 2019 Sangiovese (Montecucco)
92 Points
The nose ping pongs between sweet vanilla and sour cherries, with plenty of nuance coming from undertones of rose petals, warm tea with a slice of lemon and a piece of chocolate. An enduring live wire of acid runs through a palate of sweet and tart cherries and blackberries, with notes of dark chocolate and espresso providing an anchor. —D.C.
$23 at MacArthur Beverages
The Unexpected
Here’s where things get really exciting. With all eyes trained on Tuscany for centuries, there are still so many surprises that pop out from less-loved corners of the region.
Curious to try a bottle crafted from a single parcel of Petit Manseng tucked into a forest on the outskirts of the tiny coastal city of Grosseto? We’ve got a 95-point stunner. Or maybe you wanted an old-vine Tempranillo within view of the Leaning Tower of Pisa? Check out the one below. A long-aged Pinot Noir from the valley where the Medici kept their summer estates and that’s famous today for its racing circuit? Yeah, we’ve got that, too.
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
Courtesy of Zachys
Fattoria Le Pupille 2021 Piemme Petit Manseng (Toscana)
95 Points
The deeply herbaceous nose is rich with wild oregano, mint, fennel, thyme but then luxuriates with melted butter, salt, macadamia nuts, pineapple and lime. Sweeter notes of lemon and pineapple unfurl on the palate, like a flag in a summer breeze, lifted higher by more salt and soaring acid. Opulent and unexpected. —D.C.
$75 at Zachys
Courtesy of Vivino
Pietro Beconcini 2018 Prephilloxera Tempranillo Tempranillo (Toscana)
92 Points
The nose features the savoriness of coffee and earth, with the sweetness of vanilla mingling with blackberries and figs. On the palate, the vanilla and tart fruit elements are bolstered by an undercurrent of chocolate, while the earthiness is underscored by salt, pepper, chalky tannins and vibrant acid. — D.C.
New and old leather mingle on a nose like an old jacket with new patches, then wild cherries and hibiscus candy. The palate is instead bouncy with bright and tart fruit that aligns with the earthy astringency emphasized by chalky, tense tannins. —D.C.
Inquire with the Winery
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