In Italy’s Veneto region, ancient techniques mix with cutting-edge winemaking. Try these top-rated bottles
By Jeff Porter Wine Enthusiast Writer at Large and reviewer of wines from Piedmont & Northern Italy, Slovenia and Switzerland.
Some wine regions are content to rest on their laurels. Veneto isn’t one of them. This is the region that gave us Amarone, Prosecco and Soave, yet it keeps pushing boundaries like a restless genius who can’t stop innovating.
Think of Veneto as Italy‘s wine workshop. Here, ancient techniques, like grape-drying for Amarone, coexist with cutting-edge winemaking, as a new crop of crunchy, chillable reds steal the hearts of America’s sommelier class. Tradition isn’t preserved: it’s continuously reinvented.
Amarone producers are trading power for finesse. Soave is having its cool comeback moment (think: Chablis with an Italian accent). And the hidden gems around Lake Garda, such as the structured, age-worthy whites found in Custoza or Bardolino’s fresh, light reds, are finally getting their spotlight. Even Prosecco, often dismissed as simple fizz, is showing what happens when serious winemakers focus on single vineyards in the historic hills of Valdobbiadene and Congegliano.
Table of Contents
Weather Report
Trend Report
Futurecast
What to Drink Right Now
Valpolicella Territory
Soave and the Eastern Hills
Prosecco’s Premium Hills
Lake Garda Zone
Colli Berici
Colli Euganei
Lessini Durello
Breganze
Getty Images
Weather Report
If you want to understand Veneto’s wines, first look at its geography. This is a region that stretches from cooling Alpine foothills to the sun-baked plains near the Adriatic, with every kind of vineyard you can imagine in between. That diversity isn’t just pretty to look at. It’s the secret behind everything from the razor-sharp whites of Soave to the powerful reds of Valpolicella.
Up north, the Alps don’t just look impressive on postcards. They’re Veneto’s natural air conditioner, blocking harsh northern winds and creating cool nights that give the wines their spine-tingling acidity. Lake Garda plays meteorologist, moderating temperatures and keeping the vines happy even when summer turns up the heat. The Adriatic boasts a similar moderating effect for the regions near the coast. When conditions are right, the mix of weather between the mountains and sea helps to create the rainfall needed to keep the vines happy and healthy.
Recent vintages tell the story of a region dealing with climate change—not through panic, but adaptation. Here’s what we’ve seen:
// Create the element
var script_68a76c5166546 = document.createElement(“script”);
});
`;
// Append the script to the body
document.body.appendChild(script_68a76c5166546);
2024
Mother Nature kept everyone on their toes. A cool spring led to a mixed summer, with heat waves playing tag with rainfall. The result? Whites showing gorgeous aromatics and Prosecco with brilliant freshness. For reds, it’s a vintage where elegance trumps power, especially in Valpolicella where the wines are showing remarkable clarity and precision.
2023
Another challenging year that proved great winemakers earn their status in tough vintages. While difficult weather conditions tested nerves, the results surprised everyone. Whites particularly shined, with Soave and Lugana showing intense minerality. Prosecco producers couldn’t stop smiling about their fruit quality.
2022
Think of 2022 as the goldilocks vintage. Not too hot, not too cold. Just right. The wines show it, with a perfect balance of ripeness and freshness. Amarone producers who waited for peak ripeness were rewarded with grapes ideal for their long drying process.
2021
A vintage that old-timers nod about. Cool nights and warm days gave the grapes everything they needed without stress. The Valpolicella zone produced wines with plump, dense fruit, but clean, bright acidity to keep everything in balance.
2020
Summer brought the heat but well-timed August storms provided relief just when the vines needed it. Early harvesting proved key, especially for whites. The best producers made wines with surprising freshness despite the warm year.
2019
A classic year that proved why Veneto’s winemaking reputation spans centuries. Perfect spring conditions led to a warm but not excessive summer. The resulting wines, particularly from Valpolicella, show remarkable balance and aging potential. Amarone from this vintage delivers both power and finesse, with many producers calling it a benchmark year.
2018
Nature gave Veneto’s winemakers everything they could want. A wet spring replenished water reserves, followed by a dry, sunny summer with cool nights. The harvest stretched comfortably into autumn, allowing for perfect ripening. The wines show exceptional aromatics and structure, with Soave and Valpolicella both producing wines that will reward patient cellaring.
Think of Veneto as Italy’s wine workshop. Here, ancient techniques, like grape-drying for Amarone, coexist with cutting-edge winemaking, as a new crop of crunchy, chillable reds steal the hearts of America’s sommelier class.
Jeff Porter, Wine Enthusiast Writer at Large
Trend Report
The Lighter Side of Power
Remember when Amarone was all about muscle? Those days are fading like last year’s vintage charts. Today’s producers are finding ways to maintain Amarone’s intensity while adding elegance and nuance. Think Muhammad Ali rather than Mike Tyson. The best examples still pack a punch but dance across your palate with unexpected grace. Alcohol levels are inching down from their historic highs, and new oak is being used more judiciously. The result? Wines that speak more clearly of their origins.
Soave’s Second Act
Soave isn’t just having a moment. It’s experiencing a revolution. Producers are moving away from high-yield mediocrity toward wines of genuine character. Single-vineyard bottlings are showcasing the region’s volcanic soils and extended lees aging is adding complexity that rivals serious white Burgundy at a fraction of the price. The focus on indigenous Garganega, often field-blended with small amounts of Trebbiano di Soave, is producing wines with both immediate appeal and serious aging potential.
Prosecco Gets Serious
The days of treating Prosecco as just party bubbles are over. The steep hills of Valdobbiadene and Conegliano are producing wines of remarkable precision, with producers focusing on single vineyards and longer aging on lees. These aren’t just aperitif wines anymore but serious sparklers worthy of the dinner table. The recent recognition of Rive (steep hillside) sites has encouraged more terroir-focused winemaking, while the Col Fondo style (traditional method of bottle fermentation without removing the yeast) is attracting wine lovers seeking authenticity and character.
// Create the element
var script_68a76c5166e3b = document.createElement(“script”);
});
`;
// Append the script to the body
document.body.appendChild(script_68a76c5166e3b);
The Rise of Indigenous Varieties
While international varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, have their place, Veneto’s winemakers are rediscovering their viticultural heritage. Ancient grapes, like Durella (the backbone of Lessini Durello’s sparkling wines) and Tai Rosso, are finding new expressions in modern cellars.
Even within established regions, forgotten varieties are making a comeback. In Valpolicella, for example, Oseleta is being revived for its ability to add structure and complexity to blends or just shine on its own. Like the other historic grapes that are in the midst of a resurgence, it adeptly highlights the depth, beauty and character of its longstanding homeland.
Getty Images
Cork & Compass
You’re Going Places
Private wine excursions across the globe, led by experts
Save Your Spot
Futurecast
Looking Forward by Looking Back
Veneto’s winemakers aren’t waiting for climate change to reshape their region. They’re actively adapting, often by looking to the past. Ancient high-altitude vineyard sites, formerly considered too cool for quality wine production, are being replanted. Traditional pergola training systems, once dismissed as outdated, are being recognized for their ability to protect grapes from intense summer sun.
Even grape varieties are being reevaluated, with some producers experimenting with drought-resistant indigenous varieties that were nearly forgotten. Rondinella, a grape that has great resistance to disease and bad weather, is one particularly great example of this revival.
The Burgundy Effect
As Burgundy prices continue their stratospheric rise, wine lovers are seeking alternatives. Veneto’s terroir-focused producers are perfectly positioned to benefit. Soave’s single-vineyard whites are drawing comparisons to Chablis, while the precision of modern Valpolicella reminds some critics (myself especially) of Côte de Nuits reds. This isn’t about imitation—it’s about showing how Veneto’s unique terroirs can produce wines of equal sophistication at more accessible prices.
Getty Images
What to Drink Right Now
Valpolicella Territory
From everyday drinking Classico to meditation-worthy Amarone, Valpolicella offers Italy’s widest range of red wine styles. Modern producers are finding balance between power and elegance, particularly in Amarone. And single-vineyard Classico Superiore bottlings are showing the region’s capacity for terroir expression.
Ripasso, the region’s slightly richer “middle child,” continues to evolve: the best examples offer Amarone-like complexity at more approachable prices. The higher-altitude sites in Sant’Ambrogio and Fumane are producing especially noteworthy wines as climate change pushes cultivation upward.
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
Image Courtesy of Perrines Wine Shop
Massimago 2023 Duca Fedele Red (Valpolicella)
94 Points
Wild raspberry and red currant aromas leap from the glass, dancing with fresh-snipped thyme and garden herbs in a spring breeze. The palate channels pure joy through crunchy red fruit, electric acidity racing across the tongue while subtle earthy notes ground the finish. This is the new benchmark for Valpolicella, capturing everything great about this region: freshness, soul, and pure deliciousness. Editor’s Choice.—Jeff Porter
$25 at Perrine’s Wine Shop
Image Courtesy of Liquor Cave
Buglioni 2022 Il Bugiardo Corvina Blend (Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso)
91 Points
Rich and enveloping, this Ripasso unfolds with waves of dripping ripe plums, blackberry jam, and fresh figs, while delicate violet perfume lifts the wine out of the glass. A backbone of smoke and earth grounds the wine, adding complexity without heaviness. The palate shows impressive depth and concentration yet maintains poise through its savory finish, a balancing act that keeps you coming back for more rather than weighing you down. — J.P.
$32 at Liquor Cave
Image Courtesy of Saratogawine.com
Bertani 2021 Corvina Blend (Valpolicella Ripasso)
92 Points
This wine opens with aromas of fresh roasted coffee beans mingling with dark berries and blackcurrants, while dried violets add ethereal perfume. The palate embraces its richness with a chewy, lush texture that fills the mouth without overwhelming it. This is a textbook example that reminds you why the Ripasso method became such a beloved innovation, it brings depth and luxury while maintaining drinkability. —J.P.
$27 at Saratoga Wine
Image Courtesy of Station Plaza Wine
Cesari 2015 Bosan Riserva Corvina Blend (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico)
93 Points
This Riserva begins as an introvert at the dinner party, initially reserved, wrapped in layers of herbs and dark brooding fruits. But like any great conversation partner, patience reveals its depths. The wine unfolds gradually, each sip sharing new chapters of spice and complexity. This isn’t a wine that broadcasts its story; rather, it’s a slow-burning narrative that rewards attention and time. Think of it as that thoughtful friend who, once comfortable, offers the most engaging dialogue, especially when accompanied by a perfectly seared roast or mushrooms charred to earthy perfection. — J.P.
$115 at Station Plaza Wine
// Create the element
var script_68a76c516b654 = document.createElement(“script”);
});
`;
// Append the script to the body
document.body.appendChild(script_68a76c516b654);
Soave and the Eastern Hills
The volcanic soils of Soave are producing some of Italy’s most exciting white wines. The best examples combine mineral intensity with surprising aging potential. High-altitude vineyards, particularly in the Classico zone, are becoming increasingly important as producers seek freshness and complexity. Look for wines from the recognized crus, where old pergola-trained Garganega vines produce wines of remarkable depth and longevity.
A contemplative expression of Soave Classico that reveals itself gradually in layers. The initial delicate floral perfume floats above subtle pear fruit and citrus accents. The texture shows a gentle grip beneath its elegant frame while stony mineral notes emerge on the finish. Time proves essential here: whether in glass or cellar this wine rewards patience, slowly unveiling a depth and refinement that speaks to the profound potential of Garganega from these classic soils. Drink Now – 2042. Cellar Selection.—J.P.
$36 at Wine.com
Image Courtesy of Cornelia Tessari
Cornelia Tessari 2022 I Ettaro Coste Garganega (Soave Classico Superiore)
92 Points
Rich and opulent with roasted citrus and peach notes layered with honey. This special Garganega from Coste undergoes 40 days of appassimento before aging in grandfather Antonio’s concrete tanks. Produced from the family’s original “first hectare” vineyard, it delivers distinctive power with volcanic minerality and remarkable persistence. — J.P.
Inquire with the Winery
Prosecco’s Premium Hills
The hills of Conegliano Valdobbiadene are proving that Prosecco can be much more than party bubbles. The steep, high-altitude vineyards of Cartizze and the newly recognized Rive sites are producing wines of remarkable precision and character. Extended lees aging and single-vineyard bottlings are creating complex sparkling wines worthy of serious attention.
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
Image Courtesy of Vivino
Bisol 2024 Rive di Guia Prosecco (Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore)
93 Points
A cool mountain stream flows over smooth stones, that’s this wine in a glass. It starts quietly, whispering with jasmine blossoms and white tea while a hint of pear floats by. Take a sip and you’ll find those elegant, tiny bubbles dancing through pure minerality. This isn’t a loud, showy sparkler. It’s more like nature bottled up in refined form. Editor’s Choice.— J.P.
$34 at Empire Wine
Image Courtesy of Saratogawine.com
BiancaVigna 2023 Rive di Ogliano Extra Brut Superiore Glera
92 Points
A compelling Rive di Ogliano that demonstrates the serious side of Prosecco. This wine shows precision and poise with a firm mineral core driving the experience. The wine’s structure and tension create a sophisticated framework where delicate floral notes and fresh fruit play supporting roles. The fine mousse and sustained energy make this a thoughtful expression of its prestigious terroir. A wine that demands attention and contemplation. Editor’s Choice. — J.P.
$25 at Saratoga Wine
Image Courtesy of Barrik.It
Montelvini 2023 Serenitatis Extra Brut Glera (Asolo Prosecco Superiore)
90 Points
The nose of this Prosecco is focused and laser-like, with aromas of crushed stone, flint, mountain flowers and green pears racing out of the glass. On the palate, the wine is bright and fresh, lifted by vibrant acidity that pops with flavors of lemon zest, green apple, and ginger, tingling the taste buds with its superfine bubbles. The finish is marked by a refreshing hint of mint, leaving a clean and invigorating impression. Best Buy. —J.P.
$19 at Barrik.IT
Lake Garda Zone
The gentle slopes around Lake Garda are experiencing a renaissance. Light-bodied reds that were once dismissed as simple summer drinks are now showing surprising complexity. The new Bardolino Cru system, highlighting distinct subzones, is helping producers create more focused, site-specific wines. These fresh, elegant reds offer a lighter vision for Veneto’s wine future compared to its big, bold past.
Lugana, from the southern shores of Lake Garda, produces some of Italy’s most compelling white wines from the Turbiana grape, combining richness with mineral precision. Custoza, a complex white blend drawing on local varieties, offers remarkable value and food-friendliness. The region’s rosé revolution continues with Chiaretto, whose pale, Provence-like style and lake-influenced freshness have made it one of Italy’s most exciting pink wines.
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
Image Courtesy of Perrines Wine Shop
Le Morette 2023 Mandolara Turbiana (Lugana)
91 Points
A blend of white peach and lemon peel on the nose all wrapped around a fresh bouquet of white flowers. The palate is savory with an herbal edge but layers of yellow plum, melon and green almond on the textural finish. —J.P.
$25 at Perrine’s Wine Shop
Image Courtesy of Saratogawine.com
Allegrini 2023 Oasi Mantellina Turbiana (Lugana)
92 Points
Jasmine, mixed citrus, and a salty mineral thread rise delicately from the glass leaving a lasting impression. Bright lemon and tangy orange carry through on the tart palate, supported by a textured, saline finish that lingers for ages. Crisp and layered, it’s a wine that feels like sunshine captured in a glass. Pair with fresh seafood crudo or a lemony couscous salad. — J.P.
$23 at Saratoga Wine
Image Courtesy of Monte Del Frá
Monte del Frà 2022 Cà del Magro White (Custoza)
93 Points
Opening with heady aromas of magnolia, warmed apples and roasted almonds pour out of the glass like waves onto a beach. Mouthfilling with the volume turned up on the palate to match the flavors found in the glass. As the wine reaches the finish sea spray and crushed chalk mineral notes lift the palate to the finish .Drink Now – 2035. Cellar Selection. —J.P.
Inquire with the Winery
Image Courtesy of Roma Wine and Liquor
Le Morette 2023 Red (Bardolino Classico)
90 Points
A wine for the times. This wine is fresh, light (but with some stuffing) and crunchy. Tart red cherries mixed with raspberries and bay leaf aromas lift from the glass. Popping on the palate with a bright mix of red berry flavors with a mouthwatering finish. Deserves a chill and can be consumed all year round, at the beach, slopes or on the couch, a wine for whenever. —J.P.
$25 at Roma Wine & Liquors
Image Courtesy of Eataly Vino
Zenato 2023 Rosato (Bardolino Chiaretto)
89 Points
Vividly tart red berries meet the brightness of orange peel, creating a wine that’s zesty and electric. Crisp acidity keeps it alive, with a clean, citrusy finish. The energy in this glass demands attention, ideal for grilled salmon or roasted pepper salad. Best Buy. —J.P.
$19 at Eataly Vino
// Create the element
var script_68a76c516f94d = document.createElement(“script”);
});
`;
// Append the script to the body
document.body.appendChild(script_68a76c516f94d);
Colli Berici
South of Vicenza, these limestone-rich hills are producing impressive international varieties, like Merlot and Cabernet Franc, alongside native grapes. The local Tai Rosso (a genetic twin of Grenache) makes wines of surprising elegance and complexity.
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
Image Courtesy of Wine.com
Inama 2018 Oratorio Di San Lorenzo Carmenere (Colli Berici)
95 Points
This wine is a dark and decadent powerhouse, packed with jammy black plum and fresh blackberry, all amped up with a melange of spices. Notes of violets and an earthy hummus add counterpoint toe the rich dark fruits. Mouthfilling and plush, it is not overloaded with anyone flavor. The wine crescendos with a fusion of dark fruits and licorice that leads to notes of coffee, tobacco and dried leaves. This wine is as solid as a superhero’s jawline. Drink Now – 2045. Cellar Selection.—J.P.
$95 at Wine.com
Colli Euganei
These volcanic hills rising from the Padovan plain are a source of distinctive whites and age-worthy reds. Historic varieties like white Moscato Giallo and red Raboso share space with Bordeaux plantings like Cab Sauv and Carménère, while the sweet Fior d’Arancio offers a unique expression of Moscato.
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
Image Courtesy of Wine.com
Maeli 2019 Rosso Infinito Red (Colli Euganei)
93 Points
A blend of 41% Carménère, 33% Merlot and 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, this Bordeaux-inspired wine shines with aromas of blackberry compote, cassis, tobacco, violets and baking spices. The Italianate palate lifts the rich, darkly hued fruit-centric palate with vibrant acidity and savory finishes that show what heights these grapes can achieve in Italy. —J.P.
$20 at Central Wine Merchants
Lessini Durello
The high-altitude vineyards in the Lessini Mountains are producing some of Italy’s most exciting sparkling wines. Made from the native Durella grape, these wines combine bracing acidity with mineral depth, offering a compelling alternative to more famous sparklers. Taut and focused with laser acidity and volcanic and limestone minerality, it is kind of like a bubbly Chablis.
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
Image Courtesy of Ace Beverage
Tonello 2017 Io Ulisse Pas Dosé Sparkling (Lessini Durello)
94 Points
This Lessini Durello, a low-fizz sparkler, presents a rich tapestry of baked apple, honey, roasted notes and lemon curd on the nose. The palate is focused and lean, with a vibrant acidity that clears the deck after each sip, leaving a lingering impression of crushed limestone kissed by rain. The wine’s precision and clarity make it a compelling choice for those seeking a refreshing and mineral-driven experience. Drink now–2040. Cellar Selection.—J.P.
$60 at Ace Beverage
Breganze
This small appellation in the province of Vicenza is known for both native and international varieties such as fun and fresh local red Mazarimo and elegant and earthy Pinot Noir. The local Vespaiolo grape produces distinctive whites, while late-harvest Torcolato ranks among Italy’s great dessert wines.
Decadent baked apricots drizzled with warm acacia honey and roasted nuts greet the nose. The rich, lush palate unveils candied ginger, dried peach and sweet spices. Textured with layered flavors and bright acidity, this Vespaiola passito is delicious now, but will continue to captivate for years to come. Cellar Selection.—J.P.
$50 at The Wine House
More Italy Coverage
For all things dolce vita, check out the August/September Italy Issue of Wine Enthusiast magazine.
Allow us to reintroduce Riccardo Scamarcio, Italian movie star and Puglian winemaker.
Go island hopping with our guide to Sicily’s remote oases.
Everything you need to know about the cheese caves of Carso, where Jamar is aged to perfection.
Discover how Chianti Classico is “roaring full speed into the future.”
The future of Italian wine is looking exceptionally bright, thanks to these young, forward-thinking producers.
In the shop
Full Grain Buffalo Leather 6-Bottle Wine Bag with Corkscrew & Aerator Personalized
In Stock | $249
Shop Now
The post Veneto Wines Keep Outdoing Themselves appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.
