By Emily Saladino
Wine Enthusiast Writer at Large and reviewer of wines from Croatia, Georgia, Greece, Hungary, Lebanon.

Greece may not be the world’s oldest wine region—that distinction usually goes to Georgia or Armenia, depending on which archeologist you’re standing closest to—but it’s nonetheless among the few to have preserved wine traditions going back thousands of years. In the latter half of the 20th century, when the modern Greek wine industry took shape, forward-thinking producers devoted themselves to cultivating ancient indigenous varieties.

Their investments are paying dividends across the country. Native Greek white wines like Assyrtiko, and more recently Vidiano and Moschofilero, impress and inspire domestic and far-flung audiences alike. Producers in particular are drawn to the grapes’ constitutional strengths: Because these indigenous varieties are quite literally born to thrive in Greece’s extreme sun, wind and diurnal shifts, they’re generally more able to withstand the effects of climate change.

No wonder Australian, Californian and other international winemakers are planting them. In 2024, Yiannis Paraskevopoulous, the charismatic winemaker and co-owner of Gai’a Wines in Santorini and Nemea, Greece, told me that he’s been fielding questions from French winemakers who want to grow Assyrtiko in their increasingly hot, dry Mediterranean climate. “I lived to see the day,” he says, laughing, of Greece’s homegrown hero.

Even those of us without viticultural degrees can understand the appeal of Greek white wines. Distinctive but approachable, and racing with acidity, you can drink them on their own or pair them with everything from grilled seafood and green salads to roast pork and spicy Thai-style curries.

They’re inextricably linked to their place of origin, too. That’s an important differentiator for terroir-minded oenophiles, as well as generations of modern consumers who value storytelling and that lightning rod of 21st-century marketing: authenticity.

Some of my favorites taste like salty sea breezes or crisp mountain air, transporting anyone who drinks them to the volcanic shores, craggy cliffs and verdant valleys of the Greek landscape. All are tied to a culture that’s both ancient and evolving—a lot like wine itself.

Table of Contents

Weather Report

If your friends’ Greece vacation photos look like mine, you might imagine that every inch of the country is a sandy beach surrounded by cerulean seas. It’s a great view, but only part of the picture. In addition to those photogenic and world-famous islands, Greece is the third-most mountainous country in Europe, with ranges comprising some 80% of its landscape.

Its topography provides cool breezes that can help offset sky-high Mediterranean temperatures, particularly in areas of central Greece and Attica, where heat waves now make 104°F-plus forecasts an annual event. It also helps maintain the acidity of grapes grown in vineyards throughout the country.

Given these climatic conditions and the relative youth of the modern Greek wine industry, there’s considerable vintage variability. Several internationally exported producers expertly navigate ongoing changes to their literal and metaphorical terrains, including Argyros, Gai’a, Oeno P, Papagiannakos, Skouras, Tselepos, Wine Art Estate and Zacharioudakis, among others.

Some of my favorites taste like salty sea breezes or crisp mountain air, transporting anyone who drinks them to the volcanic shores, craggy cliffs and verdant valleys of the Greek landscape.

Emily Saladino, Wine Enthusiast Writer at Large

Trend Report

Winemakers are adapting not only to their changing climate, but also to audiences who are savvier about wine in general and indigenous Greek varieties in particular.

New-Old Varieties

Over the last few decades, many Greek wine professionals studied oenology abroad and then returned home to apply cutting-edge tactics to new and centuries-old plots. Encouraged by the success of Assyrtiko, they’re embracing expressive Vidiano (a Cretan variety some foreigners compare to Chardonnay), crisp and versatile Moschofilero and more.

These wines reach several audiences. Locals have more spending power these days due to sustained domestic economic stability. Additionally, record-breaking tourism figures suggest there are millions of global citizens who enjoyed drinking a Malagousia on vacation and would love to buy bottles once they’re back home.

Rethinking Retsina

A traditional Greek wine made with pine resin, Retsina has distinctive, often divisive flavors and aromas. For years, many in and beyond Greece dismissed it as old fashioned, one-note or both. However, modern producers are investing in its signature grapes, Roditis and Savatiano, and making balanced, nuanced versions that are winning global awards and belying previous reputations.

Look Up

As temperatures continue to climb, so must winemakers. Across Greece, from Macedonia to Crete and other islands, growers are planting grapes at higher elevations. Many are transforming vineyard trellises to lyre systems that manage direct sunlight and introduce more airflow, too.

Futurecast

For those interested in expanding the reach of Greek wine, the recent rise of Assyrtiko proves two things: Greece’s indigenous white wine grapes can appeal to far-flung palates; and Anglophones can and will embrace varieties whose names they don’t already know how to pronounce. (Anyone who has tried to sell saké or Croatian, Georgian and Hungarian wines in the U.S. and beyond knows that perceived pronounceability can be a stubborn sticking point.)

It’s good news for Moschofilero, the aromatic, pink-skinned indigenous grape used to make still and sparkling white and rosé wines. Once considered an inexpensive blending grape, it found domestic success in the aughts, but its local popularity led to overproduction. Now, with restored quality, Moschofilero is poised for growth, particularly among waves of contemporary consumers eager for high-acid, light-bodied white wines that can pair with lots of dishes.

According to the Bank of Greece, in 2024, 40.7 million international travelers visited the country. That’s almost 13% more than the number of foreign visitors the year prior. As a result, Greek winemakers are eager to institute measures to prevent overtourism. The movement is particularly active in Santorini, where local authorities recently decreased cruise ship access to prevent further erosion of agricultural lands.

Crisp white wines are the ideal antidote to summer temperatures—and just so happen to be among Greek producers’ most esteemed exports. Here are 19 to try.

Assyrtiko

Grown throughout Greece—not to mention Alto Adige, Italy; Lodi, California; and beyond—Assyrtiko is incredibly dynamic. Here are ageable options to tuck in your cellar for years, as well as zippy and approachable bottles to open without delay.

Other Indigenous Varieties

Assyrtiko has become rightfully esteemed worldwide, but it’s not the only distinctive white wine grape in Greece’s ancient arsenal. These indigenous varieties are cultivated with care and increasingly exported to the U.S. One of these might be your next favorite.

Blends

Greek wineries are blending indigenous grapes with international varieties to create characterful wines that maintain a strong sense of place. These are among the best.

More White Wine Coverage

• This six-bottle Chenin Blanc master class has everything you need to know about the Loire Valley classic.
• Riesling and Chenin Blanc go head-to-head in a battle for the title of “Best Aromatic Wine.”
• Meet Godello, the crisp, complex star of dry Spanish whites.
• Learn about seven versatile varietals that make worthy alternatives to Chardonnay—Godello included.
• Or, if you’re looking for another white grape to explore, these 12 Albariños from around the world are exceptional.