Is White Wine the Future of Spain?

Amid a sea of more renowned reds, Spain’s best varietal and blended whites have been making their mark.

There are dozens of very good to excellent bottlings made from Albariño, Godello, Verdejo and Viura, as well as more obscure varieties like Treixadura, Tempranillo Blanco, Garnacha Blanca and even Palomino, the main grape for Sherry.

There are steely wines, leesy wines, oaky wines and even oxidative wines that all show proper balance through bold acidity matched against compelling flavors of fruit, oak or both.

In Rioja, land of Tempranillo, white wines are holding their own against the region’s more famous reds, and wine lovers around the world are taking note.

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According to data from Rioja’s Consejo Regulador, production of white Rioja accounted for 9.72% of total Rioja volume in 2021, which is nearly double what it was in 2012. Additionally, acreage planted to white varieties has increased by nearly 50% over the past decade and shows no signs of slowing down.

“In recent years, we’ve seen a significant increase in attention toward Rioja’s white wines, both from sommeliers and everyday wine lovers,” says Mercedes García Rupérez, winemaker at one of Rioja’s oldest wineries, Bodegas Montecillo. She attributes this growing interest in the whites of Rioja, in part, to a shift in global tastes: “People are seeking freshness, nuance and wines that reflect place as much as tradition,” she says. After all, in wine regions around the world, white wines are on the rise.

While Rioja has historically been known for its bold reds and extended aging, the region “is evolving to meet the moment,” says Garcia Rupérez.

The aromatic white wine Viña Monty Viura, for example, is a vivid expression of Viura, Rioja’s native white grape, which Bodegas Montecillo harvests from 85-year-old vines in high-altitude Sotés.

“It has incredible personality,” says Garcia Rupérez. “It offers structure, age-worthiness and a refined elegance that’s often underappreciated. For me, this wine is exciting because it allows us to tell a new story from one of the oldest regions in Spain.”

José Luis Lapuente, general manager of the Consejo Regulador de la DOCa Rioja, believes that the “future for Rioja is for more white and rosé,” he recently told the Drinks Business. He continued, “[Rioja] should continue to make beautiful reds, because we are a fantastic region for reds … but we should make more whites and rosés because, although we don’t have a dark future, we have a different one to what we thought 10 years ago.”

The Year of Spanish Whites

Of course, it’s hard not to talk about the rise of Spanish whites without mentioning Albariño, the breakout star of the recent crisp white wine craze. From Rías Baixas, along the Atlantic Ocean in the northwest corner of Spain, the grape yields crisp, high-acid wines.

Thomas Kakalios, beverage director at Eat Well Hospitality and sommelier at the Basque-inspired steakhouse Asador Bastian, believes that Albariño’s surge in popularity has also “opened the door to the exploration of other pockets of Spain in search of unique expressions attributable to the likes of Godello, Garnacha Blanca and Palomino Fino,” he says.

The ascendance of white Rioja is perhaps the perfect embodiment of how Spanish winemakers are adapting to modern palates while honoring heritage.

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“What we’re doing now is honoring the essence of Rioja, while refining how we express it,” says Garcia Rupérez. “The traditional style that once defined the region—long aging in heavily toasted barrels—no longer resonates in the same way. So we’ve adapted, moving toward shorter aging periods and using carefully selected barrels with lighter toasts. This helps preserve the fruit character and the identity of the grape, rather than overpowering it with oak.”

For the latest and greatest in white Rioja, as well as vino blanco from all over España, here are standout bottles recommended by our Tasting Department.

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Txakoli Primo 2023 Zarautz White (Spain)

Lemon-spritzed pear slice and chalk-dusted lime peel aromas fill the nose of the wine along with touches of kiwi and pineapple pith. The steely palate is tart-fruit forward with a pulsing layer of acidity that rides towards a citrusy finish. air with oysters, seafood and a classic Chick-fil-A sandwich (hold the pickles). 91 Points — Reggie Solomon

$11
Argonaut Wine & Liquor

Bodega K5 2023 K Pliota Hondarrabi Zuri (Getariako Txakolina)

Fresh, crisp, and persistent, this Txakolina carries its subtle flavors and persistence with a sea fresh feeling, plus aromas and flavors of blossoms and citrus. Lengthy. 90 Points — Elaine Chukan Brown

$12
Decántalo

Mar de Frades 2023 Albariño Albariño (Rías Baixas)

Enticing aromas of grapefruit rind and orange blossom give way to subtle hints of green pepper and white flowers. A pleasing saline character runs throughout, though the finish leans a touch too astringent, leaving the balance ever so slightly askew. 90 Points — Brandon Borcoman

$22
Wine.com

Jorge Ordóñez & Co. 2022 Botani Old Vines Moscatel Moscatel (Sierras de Málaga)

This wine is a fruit cocktail in a glass. Dense, tropical-fruit aromas of pineapple, mango, kumquat zest, orange marmalade and honeydew melon fill the nose. Ripe, succulent flavors merge seamlessly on the palate in a Jolly-Rancher-candy-like swirl of deliciousness. Pair with fried dishes, calamari and grilled meats. 91 Points — R.S.

$18
Total Wine & Spirits

Lagar de Fornelos 2023 Lagar de Cervera Albariño (Rías Baixas)

Expressive and bright, showcasing a mix of crisp stone fruits, smashed pears and apples, and a squeeze of citrus. Poised and mouthwatering with intensity and an impressively long, fresh finish. 92 Points — E.C.B.

$27
Wine.com

Pago del Vicario 2023 Tempranillo Blanco (Spain)

This bright, juicy wine wants to be in your glass. Fragrant aromas of gardenia blossom and honeysuckle open on the nose of the floral beauty that is filled out with toasted almond, brioche, dried hay, cedar and quince. The palate kicks off with tart-lemon-spritzed red apple slice and pear tart flavors that are refreshing and lifted by chalk-dusted acidity on the long finish. Open and serve as an aperitif or use as an elegant palate cleanser between courses. Editor’s Choice. 93 Points — R.S.

$14
Redneck Wine Company

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Alta Alella 2022 AUS Tallarol Pansa Blanca (Alella)

Bright, palate cleansing and intriguing. This still Xerel-lo from Catalonia relies on a lighter touch to the winemaking. The result brings together crisp apple, pithy citrus, and a pleasantly bitter herb note that are refreshing with the lightest tannic edge and a long sea-fresh finish. 92 Points — E.C.B.

$25
Hart & Cru

Casar de Burbia 2022 Valdepiñeiro Vino de Paraje Godello (Bierzo)

A welcoming tropical character is balanced by a well-composed mineral backbone that brings a sense of harmony immediately. The acidity is exactly as it should be, motivating each and every sip, and the flavors compel with each new swirl. This one should appeal to a wide audience. 93 Points — B.B.

$27
MacArthur Beverages

La Universal 2021 Dido White White (Montsant)

Satisfying and delicious, full of yellow and white fruits with persistence, just enough weight and generous feeling through the mouth. Practicing organic on older vines in limestone soils. 93 Points — E.C.B.

$21
iDealwine

Forjas del Salnés 2022 Cos Pés Albariño (Vino de Mesa)

Beautiful flavor depth and fruit-mineral harmony pull this wine forward in your glass. Gold in color, the 100% Albariño has a nose of roasted apple, freshly-baked pear tart, dried papaya, orange peel and white peach. The juicy palate frolics in a pool of golden fruit and swims to a shore of wet stone on the finish. Editor’s Choice. 94 Points — R.S.

$57
McCabes Wine & Spirits

Godeval 2022 Revival Godello (Valdeorras)

A strikingly complex nose featuring yellow fruits and oceanic undertones, is met by a precise and mineral-dominant palate. The salinity is not only pronounced but also beautifully integrated, providing a counterpoint that balances the wine’s fruit and texture. A standout example of the region’s potential. 94 Points — B.B.

$48
Saratoga Wine

Avancia 2023 Old Vines Godello Godello (Valdeorras)

An immediately appealing nose opens up with vibrant green fruit and hints of white flowers. The first sip introduces an intriguing complexity, showcasing a sleek minerality and well-integrated acid profile. There is great energy and tension here, too, making this wine really hard to put down. Editor’s Choice. 94 Points — B.B.

$32
Wine.com

Alberto Orte 2021 Atlántida Blanco White (Spain)

This is a lively, palate-refreshing, organic wine with sophistication. Perfumed aromas of white peach and tangerine leap from your glass followed by kumquat zest, dried papaya and orange blossom. The wine leads with tartness that is carried by chalk-dusted acidity that leans into stone fruit and green plum. Pair with fried dishes and seafood. Editor’s Choice. 94 Points — R.S.

$45
Taste56