Cellier aux Moines & Mont Bessay 2024
By Martha Cisneros Paja
May 2026 has been one of the most concurrent and bustling event months in the city, but some experiences demand that you pause, return to your notes, and truly assimilate the gravity of what was in the glass. It always takes me more time to write about the events that impress me the most; I find I must sit with the technical details to honor the work of the stewards behind the wine. This was certainly the case for my recent side-by-side tasting with Guillaume Marko and Philippe Pascal, which included the Cellier aux Moines 2024.
The Architecture of an Exceptional Evening
Hosted at Eli’s Table (Eli Zabar) in New York, a setting that matched the elegance of the lineup, a couple of media professionals enjoyed a comprehensive technical tasting of the 2024 releases, balanced by “classic” cold-style 2021s and rare library gems dating back to 2013. During the tasting, we had the presence of Guillaume Marko, the technical winery lead and Philippe Pascal, the visionary owner of the historic Cistercian estate in Givry and the high-altitude Domaine Mont Bessay.
Eli’s Table in the uptown east neighborhood of Manhattan is quite a gem. I confess I had stopped by their caffe many times but never experienced the hospitality of their restaurant. They kindly and graciously accommodated my pescatarian restrictions, which proved to be a masterstroke for these mineral-driven wines.Â
During the tasting event they showcased the triumph of organic resilience. While four producers in Givry are now organic, Philippe led the charge as the first to do so in 2016.
I was impressed to see and learn how they are making use of gravity-fed cellars, whole-cluster vinification, and a refusal to compromise on organic standards despite the “nights of difficulty” brought by heavy rains and frost.
The Tasting Notes from Aligoté to the Crus
As a fan of the traditional vintages, I found the 2024s, to be a revelation. These are wines of tension and transparency, far removed from the solar-driven extraction of recent years.
The White Collection
I am a champion for Aligoté since we have been studying this grape for the longest time in Latinas Wine Club. Hence, it was great to start the tasting with this crisp varietal that can be still unknown for many.
- Aligoté “Sous les Roches”: A historic parcel in Montagny. These vines were planted in May 1945, and Philippe shared the poignant image of workers putting vines in the soil while German soldiers were still present in the area. The result is a wine of electric tension and historic soul.
- Montagny 1er”Les Combes” 2024: Sourced from pure limestone; it presents exotic yellow fruit but is strictly anchored by a sharp, mineral backbone.
- Santenay 1er Cru “Bauregard” 2024
- Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru “Les Chaumées” 2024: Notable for its big freshness.” It carries weight without a hint of flabby acidity.
- Puligny-Montrachet “Les Pucelles” 2024: Still in its malolactic phase, yet already showing the complex, layered grace of its pedigree.
The Red Collection
- Givry 1er Cru Clos du Cellier aux Moines 2024: Elegant, spicy, and remarkably accessible for its age. The tannins are silky and reflect the limestone terroir.
- Givry 1er Cru “Les Dessus” 2024: The 2024 was a personal highlight—a “classic” treasure proving that cold vintages age with more soul, velvety profile.
- Clos Pascal 2024: A 0.8-hectare “monopole laboratory” with only 20 cm of soil. This is the ultimate expression of limestone intensity, crisp and great future ahead !
- Volnay 1er Cru “En Chevret” 2024: Vibrant and electric; it needs 2–3 years to settle, but the underlying structure is world-class.
- Domaine Mont Bessay Saint-Amour “Côte de Besset” 2024: Organic purity; floral and light on its feet.
- Domaine Mont Bessay Moulin-à -Vent “Le Vieux Bourg” 2024: A shift to sandstone and granite, resulting in a more structured, darker fruit profile.
- Domaine Mont Bessay Juliena “En Besay” 2024: The most burgundian Beaujolais grown at a very high altitude at the best possible terroir, the most refined expression and my favorite. I have to expand on this one below so keep reading.
Highlights: The “Most Burgundian Beaujolais” and Pescatarian Perfection
The undeniable standout was Juliénas “En Bessay” 2024. Philippe described it as the “most Burgundian Beaujolais,” and the reasons are technical: it sits at a very high altitude on the best possible terroir. They have been rigorously replanting to manage the “old girls” (vines struggling to produce), and by applying Burgundian techniques—specifically meticulous whole-cluster management, to this high-elevation Gamay, they’ve created a wine with the verticality and elegance of a Côte de Nuits Pinot Noir.
The culinary highlight was pairing this Juliénas with a Salt-Crusted Wild Branzino. Following my “sauce rule” philosophy, the wine’s natural acidity and herbal spice acted as a perfect foil to the herb-infused olive oil and the flaky fish. It was a flawless demonstration of how traditional, high-acid reds can elevate delicate seafood when the kitchen understands the balance.
Why the Traditionalist Wins
In an era of rising temperatures, the 2024s from Cellier aux Moines and Mont Bessay are a vibrant beacon of hope. Guillaume and Philippe are true stewards of the land, proving that while the juice finishes the fermentation, the tannins are the terroir. For those of us who value elegance over extraction, these bottles are essential. They speak of the earth rather than the sun, and for the traditionalist, that is the greatest triumph of all.
