The Dark Horse Grape That Became Portugal’s Answer to White Burgundy

By WineBottleMag
September 26, 2025
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“Imagine a white wine that combines the vibrancy of a mountain spring with the finesse of fine white Burgundy,” prefaces Luisa Amorim, proprietor of Taboadella in Portugal‘s central Dão wine region. Amorim is describing the palate of Encruzado, also known as Salgueirinho. Historically blended with other regional white grapes or used in field blends, the native white grape has found modern success as a single-varietal wine.

It wasn’t until the early 1990s when Quinta dos Carvalhais’ then-winemaker, Manuel Vieira, recognized the grape’s potential while experimenting with microvinifications. Though winemakers already valued Encruzado for contributing backbone, freshness, and aging capacity to their regional white blends (like with Gouveio), Viera recognized that “even on its own, Encruzado showed structure, complexity, and a distinct personality,” says current winemaker Beatriz Cabral De Almeida. In 1992, Quinta dos Carvalhais was the first winery to release a single-varietal Encruzado, laying the foundations for more to follow.

In 1994, Joana Fontes da Cunha’s parents purchased Quinta do Mondego; they recrafted for 100% Encruzado two years later and produced their first single varietal in 2005. “We understood that Encruzado was not a supporting actor but a protagonist,” says Amorim. Taboadella released their first single-varietal Encruzado in 2018.

Interest from growers and buyers has especially piqued in the last 15 years, explains Frederico Falcão, president of ViniPortugal. Now, he says “Encruzado is by far the most valuable grape in the Dão region.”

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Encruzado’s Main Character Moment

Producers have discovered single-varietal success with Encruzado because of its sensitivity and responsiveness to soil and climate characteristics. In other words: “It has the ability to express the terroir of the Dão region,” says Falcão.

In its purest form, Encruzado is flush with salinity, minerality, and a natural acidity, influenced by the thin, 300-million-year-old soils and present throughout the entire drinking experience from nose to structure to finish; the surrounding five mountain ranges result in freshness and aromatic lift. The aromatics can be complex, explains Amorim, detailing citrus, green apple, white flowers, light herbs, and resin. The structure is medium- to full-bodied, with a subtle tannic grip and a texture that’s creamy and silky.

This tantalizing palate is what led Taboadella to expand their plantings and dedicate some of their finest plots to single-varietal Encruzado. Today, Taboadella’s two single-varietal Encruzados—the Reserva Encruzado, which ages partly in cement tulips and partly in oak, and their icon white, Grande Villae Branco, of which 30% of the wine ferments and matures in Nicovelo cement tulips—are their flagships.

Quinta Dos Carvalhais Encruzado — Courtesy of Quinta Dos Carvalhais

The different expressions showcase “how well Encruzado responds to different styles of vinification,” including lees aging, bâttonage, and use of oak, explains Falcão.

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A final advantage of single-varietal Encruzado is its aging potential. Cabral De Almeida says in a recent tasting of the inaugural ‘90s wines, she was “astonished” to see how gracefully they have aged over 30 years.

“It gains depth as it ages,” she says. The wine develops a creamier texture with notes of toasted nuts and honey—all without losing its freshness.

Embracing Single-Varietal and Blends Alike

The recognition of single-varietal Encruzado is relatively recent. This “makes this grape variety even more extraordinary, as we are only at the beginning of its potential,” says Nunes.

Across the Dão, both historic houses and newer projects are committing to the style. Yet, rather than competing with one another, Amorim has noticed the shift as “an important collective movement that elevates the entire region.”

Winemakers are supporting each other in this new chapter “and it’s exciting to witness,” says Cabral De Almeida, pointing to more producers focused on single-varietal Encruzado like Passarela, Álvaro de Castro, Nuno Mira do Ó, and João Cabral Almeida Vinhos— “They’re making beautiful wines.”

Even as single-varietal Encruzado continues to proliferate, vintners are still using the grape in white blends both to honor its heritage but also to meet market demands.

Given Encruzado’s rising popularity, CVR Dão, the organization that oversees the PDO Dão, is clamping on quality restrictions; in order to produce an Encruzado varietal wine, it must have an outstanding score in the CVR Dão Tasting Chamber in order to be able to use the designation “Dão and Encruzado” on the label, explains Paulo Nunes, winemaker at Casa da Passarella.

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So while some wineries, like Taboadella, consider their blend as “an important bridge to tradition” (their Unoaked Branco combines Encruzado with Cercial-Branco and Bical in cement vats to evoke the old field-blend traditions), other wineries view their blends as a necessity to supplement small production. Raríssimo Wines, for example, continues to produce more Encruzado blends than single-varietal and Fontes da Cunha says their “pleasant, easy-drinking” blend with Gouveio sates supply while commercial interest for Encruzado continues to grow.

Taboadella Reserva Encruzado — Courtesy of Taboadella

An Epicurean’s Affordable Answer to Burgundy

Encruzado’s Burgundian-esque characteristics make it exceptionally food-friendly. Thanks to its freshness and texture, the wine pairs beautifully with ceviche, pizza, and creamy pastas, says Cabral De Almeida, while its complexity also suits vegetarian dishes and traditional Portuguese cuisine like baked cod.

For a beloved regional pairing, try Encruzado with sheep’s milk cheese, especially the soft, creamy style of Queijo da Serra da Estrela from the Dão; the wine’s minerality cuts through its richness.

When all else fails, says Falcão, “treat it as you would any high-class white Burgundy.”

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Quinta Madre de Agua 2021 Encruzado (Dão)

This ripe, creamy wine with a citrus aroma offers honey and spice flavors. This combination brings out the creamy texture and lime and pineapple fruits. From a vineyard in the foothills of Portugal’s highest mountain range, the wine has an attractive, refreshing cool feel. Drink now. Editors’ Choice. 91 points — Roger Voss

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Quinta da Taboadella 2023 Reserva Encruzado Encruzado (Dão)

Partially wood aged, the wine’s toasty aroma wraps its fresh citrus and ripe peach flavors. This fine example of the Dão’s signature white grape comes from a high-altitude vineyard. Drink this fruity wine from 2025. Editors’ Choice. 92 points — R.V.

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Quinta das Queimas 2022 Encruzado Encruzado (Dão)

Lightly wood aged, preserving the fruit, this wine has a spicy aroma and rich white fruit flavors. It is a fresh wine, with acidity, baked apple and nutmeg flavors. Drink this wine under the same family ownership for more than a century from 2025. Editors’ Choice. 93 points — R.V.

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