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Yes, You Can Pair Red Wine with Fish

Yes, You Can Pair Red Wine with Fish


Sure, the pairing dogma of “white wine with fish, red with meat” seems logical. 

But as restaurateur and retired master sommelier Alpana Singh points out in season four of Hulu drama The Bear, logic also leads to matching red wine with fish.. 

It’s not the color that creates disharmony, she says: it’s the tannins. Thankfully, there are plenty of light- to medium-bodied reds with low or soft tannins that can gently accentuate a wide breadth of seafood dishes.

And, when you consider the even wider array of sauces and flavors that are paired with fish, the red wine pairing potential makes even more sense.

Think of the red or dark ingredients that often go with fish: tomatoes, olives, mushrooms, bacon, roasted peppers, soy sauce and cocktail sauce. Some say red wine can overwhelm the delicate flavors of fish, but isn’t a fine red Burgundy more delicate than smoked salmon or fried sardines? 

Sake is also a common pairing with sashimi, even though its flavors are far more intense than a slice of raw yellowtail.

 Skip the lemon squeeze, as such acids can clash with tannins and make all but the crispest red wines taste flat.

Nils Bernstein

With so many types of fish, weight and texture should be your guide.

For fish dishes with assertive flavors or sauces, it’s usually better to pair with the dominant flavor rather than the fish itself. And skip the lemon squeeze, as such acids can clash with tannins and make all but the crispest red wines taste flat. Let your wine be the final flourish that completes the dish.

To help break it down, we examine three general styles of fish—lean, oily and meaty—and three types of preparation: high heat (grilling, broiling, pan-frying), dry heat (baking and roasting) and in liquid (steaming, poaching and cooking en papillote, or in parchment). If you braise fish, essentially stewing in a flavorful liquid, pair with the braising liquid rather than the fish itself.

Let’s dive in.

Grilled bass / Getty

Lean Fish

Cod, Halibut, Snapper, Freshwater, Sea Bass

These are called “white fish” for a reason. Their mild, flaky, snow-white flesh makes them an ideal canvas for an array of flavors. However, use caution: They can be thrown out of balance easily by a red wine, so tread cautiously.

Consider flavors that will complement both the fish and red wine. Sweet soy or wine glazes, tomato or fruit salsas, red-pepper aioli or Romesco sauce will all work well.

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High Heat

This cooking method brings a crisp texture and charred flavor that permeates soft fish quickly. Use skin-on or whole fish, and don’t overcook. Valpolicella Classico (not Ripasso or Amarone) is a fresh, light red wine with tart cherry and berry flavors, hints of baking spice and a subtle bitterness that goes well with char from a grill.

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Degani 2022 Red (Valpolicella Classico)

Crushed red cherries, juice dripping down the cheeks and wild flower aromas permeate the glass of this red. Well balanced with fine tannins and zippy acidity that shines with raspberry and red currant flavors balanced by fresh herbs and black tea notes on the finish. Best Buy. 91 Points — Jeff Porter

$17
Liquor Express

It’s usually better to pair the dominant flavor than the fish itself.

Nils Bernstein

Dry Heat

Baking or roasting white fish delivers firmer flesh and concentrated, earthy flavor. Try butterflied whole snapper, or plump baked cod fillets with Gamay. The wine provides a pop of freshness with a brisk berry character and undertones of smoke and mushroom that go well with roasted dishes. Try a lively Cru Beaujolais like Brouilly.

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Georges Duboeuf 2022 Brouilly

The wine successfully balances youthfulness with evolving maturity. Ripe red raspberry, damp earth and strawberry-stem aromas tickle the nose along with rosehip and dried peach skin. Robust in texture the wine has a playfulness that is tempered by drying tannins. 91 Points — Reggie Solomon

$17
Saratoga Wine

Wet Heat

This delicate cooking method suits delicate fish. It makes them taste like they just jumped out of the sea. Yet, even fragile dishes can work with a red wine. One tip: Don’t poach in acidic broths or white wine. Try using fish, mushroom or even meat broth.

German Trollinger (known as Schiava in Italy and Vernatsch in Südtirol) is a light-bodied wine that works well with steamed and poached fish. It offers crisp acidity and seductive aromas of cherry, berry and floral pastille. It’s especially nice if the fish has been steamed with Asian spices like star anise and ginger.

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Schnaitmann 2023 Trollinger (Germany)

Very juicy and approachable, like German version of Beaujolais, this shows a nice mix of fruit, sporting strawberry, rosehip, plum and thyme, with pleasant light tannins and vibrant acidity, which give blaance, but also needed complexity and structure. Charming finish. 91 Points — Aleks Zecevic

$ Varies
Wine-searcher

Pomegranate glazed trout with wild rice
Pomegranate glazed trout with wild rice / Getty

Oily Fish

Salmon, Sardines, Mackerel, Trout

Oily fish and red wine are a natural match. Like good friends, fat and tannins bond with one another, bringing out the best in each other. Fat carries flavor that tannins help release. In turn, it mellows the tannins’ astringency, which allows the wine’s other characteristics to shine.

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High Heat

Grilling, broiling and pan-frying are among the best ways to cook oily fish. As with all fish, it’s important not to overcook. The fish’s oil content will keep it moist, but overcooking can give the final dish a metallic or “fishy” quality.

Rioja is not a shy wine, but it’s great with grilled food and suits the stronger flavors of these fish. Young (Joven) Riojas are delicious with vivid cherry fruit, while aged versions like Crianza or Reserva tend toward savory flavors of smoke, tobacco and dried herbs and spices that go perfect with grilled or smoked fish.

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Altanza 2020 Crianza Tempranillo (Rioja)

Firm berries and dark chocolate lift from the glass, and carry into a mouthwatering palate. Stimulating acidity provides a fresh, lengthy finish, and refreshing depth of flavor. Best Buy. 92 Points— Elaine Chukan Brown

$16
Redneck Wine Company

Dry Heat

This is a great way to cook whole salmon or trout. It’s less likely to overcook than using high-heat methods, and it’s easy to add other ingredients or sauces. The bright acidity of Barbera from Piedmont makes it very food-friendly. With richer, earthier fish, it can give that “squeeze of lemon” effect without the citrus, and its spicy notes merge well with the flavors created by roasting.

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Ratti 2022 Battaglione Barbera (Barbera d’Alba)

Battaglione unleashes an army of aromas – ripe plum, juicy blackberries, sun-dried cranberries, fragrant violets, and thyme. The palate is a jolt of energy with vibrant raspberry and cherry, evolving into forest floor notes as it swirls in the glass. With a robust backbone and food-friendly texture, this vivacious Barbera exemplifies the varietal’s beauty and purity. 92 Points — Jeff Porter

$19
Michael’s Wine Cellar

Wet Heat

Wet-heat cooking isn’t commonly used for fatty fish, but it should be. Even once-ubiquitous poached salmon has fallen out of favor. Wet heat has the effect of taming stronger flavors without masking them. This is the technique employed for the most red-wine-friendly fish dish of all: salmon poached in red wine.

Salmon and Pinot Noir has become a popular pairing, and it’s best when the salmon is cooked as simply as possible. Trout and mackerel are also delectable when poached. The light, earthy nature and bright fruit tones of New Zealand Pinot make it a perfect match.

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Greywacke 2022 Pinot Noir (Marlborough)

This is a wine that reminds us why we love the fermented grape in the first place. From the heady, hopelessly charming perfume of mixed berry compote, peppery spice, sage and dried flowers on their stalks, to the wonderfully bright acidity that plays alongside taut, sinewy tannins and tangy berry, floral and herbal notes—it’s hard to resist. Characterful and expressive, with enough structure to pair with glazed duck or to cellar for several more years. Editor’s Choice. 96 Points — Christina Pickard

$37
Binny’s Beverage Depot

Raw tuna steak with salt and pepper / Getty
Raw tuna steak with salt and pepper / Getty

Meaty Fish

Tuna, Swordfish, Mahi-Mahi, Shark

“Meaty” is the keyword here. Densely textured and lean, think of these fish as you would pork chops or chicken breasts. Mediterranean flavors work well with these types of fish, as do sweet Asian sauces—teriyaki, gochujang, hoisin, white miso, nuoc cham, peanut, sweet chili—and spicy Mexican salsas. Try them tossed into pastas, tucked into tacos, sliced atop hearty salads and piled on buns in place of burgers.

High Heat

These fish work well grilled, broiled or seared in a cast-iron pan. Pack on a dry rub and grill until the fish flakes apart when prodded with a fork. Austrian Zweigelt is a great barbecue wine. It’s light-bodied and easy-drinking, but with lots of personality and spice. Its gentle tannins work with the leanness of these fish, while bright acidity can handle any flavor thrown at it.

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Glatzer 2021 Carnuntum Cuvée Zweigelt (Carnuntum)

Silky and inviting, this Zweigelt delivers juicy dark cherry and plum fruit with a touch of baking spice. The texture is smooth, with well-integrated tannins and a lively freshness that keeps it balanced. Classic in profile but well-executed, with good length and an easygoing charm. Best Buy. 90 Points — Aleks Zecevic

$20
67 Wine

Dry Heat

Thanks to its light body and crisp acidity, Sicilian Frappato is often consumed with the big tuna and swordfish caught in the seas that surround the island. This aromatic wine shows ripe red berry and warm spice tones that bridge the stronger flavors that might accompany meaty, roasted fish. Try pairing it with tuna in a briny puttanesca sauce, or mahi-mahi with fresh tomatoes, red onion and feta cheese.

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Valle dell’Acate 2021 Il Frappato Frappato (Vittoria)

An earthy, umami nose is headlined by notes of soil and underbrush, while a latent herbaceousness and a smear of sweet and sour fruitiness provides depth. That blend of herbs and fruit swirls onto the palate, where supple yet firm tannins and a metallic undertone lead into a salt and pepper finish. 92 Points — Danielle Callegari

$20
Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant

A terrific pairing for deep-fried fish is Tavel from the Southern Rhône, the reddest of French rosés.

Nils Bernstein

Wet Heat

Steaming or poaching meaty fish in water can make them taste like canned tuna. However, poaching them in olive oil is a revelation.

Oil-poached tuna or swordfish has both richness and body, so the challenge is to find a similar, fish-friendly wine. Grenache takes many forms throughout the world, most of them not ideal with fish, even in this hearty form. But look for lighter examples of California Grenache that tease out its floral and herbal side. It’s become one of the most interesting varieties in California, particularly from the Central Coast. 

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Caliza 2022 Kän-krēt Grenache (Paso Robles Willow Creek District)

Precise aromas of strawberry, rhubarb and hibiscus meet with an earthy beetroot element on the dynamic nose of this bottling, which was aged for 11 months in concrete before finishing seven months in neutral oak. Dark cherry flavors are lifted by elegant lines of violet and rosewater on the palate. 96 Points — Matt Kettmann

$75
Caliza Winery

Deep-fried fish and chips / Getty
Deep-fried fish and chips / Getty

Fish and Chips

Deep-frying is one of the best ways to cook most types of fish, keeping it pristine under a protective coating. It’s not a red wine necessarily, but a terrific pairing for deep-fried fish is Tavel from the southern Rhône, the reddest of French rosés. It offers concentrated fruit while remaining dry and crisp. Its attractive herbal and mineral qualities complement the delicacy of fried fish while cutting through the richness.

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Brotte 2023 Les Églantiers Rosé (Tavel)

This wine presents a rose bouquet gently framed by Bing cherry, orange zest, white peach and beech mushrooms. The palate offers good depth of flavor, with bright acidity accentuating soft red fruits and a savory midpalate. Enjoy now. Best Buy. 93 Points — Anna-Christina Cabrales

$21
Esquin.com


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